Wednesday 14 November 2007

Heritage haveli

Place: UNCHAGAON

A leisure resort in Ghaziabad district of Uttar Pradesh, Fort Unchagaon is a largish old haveli in the middle of nowhere. An early 20th century haveli, it is now a hotel.

The imposing entrance to Fort Unchagaon
Reaching it will not be easy at all – we took a road trip till Garhmukteshwar, and then a boat ride down the Ganga. Now this may sound interesting, unfortunately the mighty river in this stage of her life is rather staid. On both banks all you can see are grey bluffs and some crops in the field if you have taken the right season, read winter. It is a really long journey by boat, and if you stop by the rather picturesque island along the way, the journey only becomes longer. But entire worth it as it is a relief from the grey waters and banks. If you are a couple on a romantic trip, better not have disagreements, for the two of you is all the company you shall get!

And be warned, despite the boatmen claiming there are river dolphins in this stretch, you will encounter them more in the way you meet tigers in a tiger reserve. “Pug marks are all I ever see, and on this journey at least, this is how I saw the dolphins. However, to be fair, I did see the dolphins on a later trip in this stretch!

Disembarking after what seemed endless hours on the boat, hungry and tired – the chips and other goodies had been on different boat, we made to the banks again, only to discover there was another road trip, and this time through almost non existent roads!

Anyhow, reaching this tiny hamlet dominated by this haveli was a bit of an anti climax – the interiors are all dominated by erstwhile semi rajahs whose only passion seems to have been to decimate fauna in the area. The walls are lined with tiger, deer and other animal heads, and that is definitely not my preferred interior decoration motif.

It turned out that the rooms are pretty large, and draughty, and if at the end of haveli, can be spooky as well. Given that it is an old palace, not all amenities are as updated as you would want them to be. And no, there is no TV in the rooms! Food is standard fare, ordinary north Indian. Alcohol is local or strong beer. Despite the increase in tourism in India, this little hole in the wall has not yet caught on, and people stare when you step out of the haveli.

The lawns are easily the best part of the haveli. As there is not much else to do, prepare to entertain yourself! 

Tuesday 28 August 2007

Meet Vegas' big brother: Macau

Place: MACAU

There are only so many superlatives one can use to describe what is now the largest casino in the world

The Venetian shimmers in reflected glory. This, the world's second largest building when built, is Macau's latest step towards making it a regional casino hub
Part of a mega hotel-convention-entertainment centre, this casino is built to host about 6,000 slot machines in 5,46,000 sq ft. Its target is new Asian, young, rich and within five kilometres of Macau. In fact, with about half the world's population, about three billion people living in that five-kilometre flying radius of Asia's Sin City, it is no surprise that Macau left Vegas behind in where it matters most - the bottom line - raking in an estimated US$ 6.8 billion.

And the Venetian Macau is set to rule here in the coming few decades. Built on land reclaimed from the sea, today this is a giant anchor hotel of the 10.5 mn sq ft Cotai Strip. The strip, whose name is derived from two of Macau's lesser-known islands - Colanne and Taipa, is witness to 14 world class hotels coming up at top speed. With a combined room capacity of 20,000 and an estimated expenditure of US$ 25-50 billion by 2010, it is a whole new city coming up at great speed.

The Venetian has cost about US$ 12 billion already, with some work left, but the rest of the Strip will have three mn sq ft of retail, three mn sq ft of meeting and convention facilities as well as a 1,800-seat entertainment complex. Sheldon G Adelson, chairman of the board and CEO, Las Vegas Sands, the holding company of the Venetian, says he looks forward to the Strip changing the face of the gaming industry in Macau, changing its image of a rather seedy gambling den to a modern, legal global centre for gaming. "We wanted to build space for 60,000 rooms, but got permission for just a third of that capacity," he says.

This, for a place that has a total area of about 27 sq km and a population of half a million people. And the number of visitors to Macau last year - 26 million. It is hoping that at least 10 million travellers from India (with its 1.3 billion people) will visit its shore by 2010. (The tourism ministry's figures for 2006 are 4.43 million!) The Venetian has 16,000 people working in the property, 9,000 as hotel staff and the rest working for the 30 fine dining restaurants, 350 speciality shops - with every luxury brand one can think of, a 1,000-seat food court, a 15,000-seat stadium (which on October 18 hosted a dream match - Roger Federer v/s Pete Sampras) inside the hotel. The MICE part will see the world's largest convention and exhibition centre.

The numbers say it all. The hotel has 3,000 suites, each with a minimum area of 650 sq ft - each with a 130 sq ft bathroom and a sunken living room overlooking the surrounding bays. And most rooms are already booked till November, informs a hotel staff. But it is the facade that elicits the biggest gasps. It is built to recreate Venice complete with St Marks Square, the Doge's Palace, a 157-feet Rialto bridge, huge colonnades, massive halls, ceiling copied from famous Italian landmarks.

There are three 490-feet canals that water the equivalent of 11 Olympic-size swimming pools, with 51 gondolas on which travellers can even get married, as couples from South Korea, Malaysia and Thailand have done, after winning nationwide contests to get married on the opening day.

The shopping is in this ambitiously-named Grand Canal Shoppes area, and though not all stores have opened yet, the visuals leave one awestruck, especially as the entire area is topped by a manmade sky, complete with clouds, which forms part of the hotel superstructure. "I chose Venice as I had my honeymoon there, and here I have combined the romance of Venice with the luxury of Vegas," says this septuagenarian who walks with a stick, but whose energy is still infectious.

If this sounds like a brochure, please excuse, for it is not everyday that one comes across the largest single building in the world, as Adelson claims. His earlier hotel at Macau, The Sands, started in 2005, recovered its investment within a year, and Adelson is the third richest American according to Forbes.

A view of the main casino room, which, when built,
was the largest in the world
"Do you want one of these?" is his opening statement on meeting Indian journalists as he proudly shows off the Venetian. But he is unwilling to venture into India without the casinos. Convention venues do not make money, they serve to create a ripple effect where the individual who comes in for the business meeting gets attracted to the casino," is his blunt reply to queries about a similar destination resort in India. But he sees great potential in the land, and says he is ready to invest a similar amount here if rules permit. Las Vegas Sands is already building a casino-resort in Singapore, which will seek to attract Indians as well. "I want to create copies of Las Vegas around the world."

However, he claims only five per cent of the Venetian's area is earmarked for gambling, though he admits he expects two-thirds of the revenue to come from it. The comparative figure for the hotel this resort is modelled on - the Venetian Resort Hotel Casino in Las Vegas gets about a third of its revenue from gambling. Respectability is a mantra for him at Macau, for he is unwilling to risk losing his license in the face of strict Chinese supervision. "No loan sharks will be permitted," he stresses, and trots out names of chains like Hilton, Sheraton, Four Seasons and Shangri-la as among the 'respectable' chains designed to give confidence to the prospective indecisive visitor.

Getting to Macau is far from simple. But like the Burj Dubai, it is set to become the chosen destination for millions by the time Asia's fairytale city is complete. One thing that travellers need to keep in mind - don't plan a holiday with kids, for those under 18 are not allowed in the casino.

Thursday 19 April 2007

Once and future palace

The Fernhills Palace is now part of the Welcomheritage
group of hotels
Place: OOTY

Ooty has been a favourite with holidayers for a long time. The English, to escape the stifling heat and humidity of the plains of south India, found it to be great retreat.

Among the best known destinations in this hill town is the Fernhills Palace. Captain F. Cotton of the Madras Engineers Regiment built the first Fernhill Bungalow as far back as 1844. Over the decades, owners kept changing, till the then maharaja of Mysore, Chamarajendra Wadiyar X, just 12 years old, bought the property in 1873.

Since then, this sprawling estate, built over 50 acres, has been with the erstwhile Mysore royal family. The family has given it out to many hospitality chains to run it, but been satisfied with any, as a result the property has been part of many a hotel group. It is currently part of Welcomheritage's list of hotels, though the Wodeyars remain its owners.

The Palace itself is full of relics of a past era. Past rulers of the dynasty cast their watchful eyes on you as you pass them in halls, rooms and corridors full of memorabilia from eras long gone by. There is a profusion of period pieces - tables, beds, desks, lamps, pianos, dressers, paintings all crowd around almost atop each other as space has run out. I had to actually run out to take breather - on to beautiful, moderately landscaped gardens that retain some of their natural charm. And they are beautiful - just a look at the pine trees, or silver oak or red gum, or cypress trees will reassure you on that point. If you stay at the Palace, or even just happen to visit, you would be well advised to spend more time exploring the sprawling estate.