Royal setting

Place: JAIPUR 

Book: RAMBAGH PALACE

The first time I drove in through  imposing gates of Rambagh Palace, I was so struck by the magnificence of its gardens that I momentarily forgot there was a building to get to.  My green senses amply satiated, I entered portals of the palace. Once again I was struck by the sheer grandeur as much as the refined sophistication of the  palace. Entering from what I later realized was the former zenana entrance, the next few hours were dedicated to exploring what I realised would be one of the finest palaces or hotels I would ever visit.

That India's palace hotels have a place of their in the global corridors of luxury is well known. These properties, whose guest list reads like the invite wish  list of a elite party, hardly need more publicity. So this book, published by the Taj Group of hotels, which operates a number of palace hotels, with Jaipur's Rambagh Palace as one its prime jewels. 

The beautiful exteriors of the Rambagh Palace, today a hotel managed by the Taj Group

The book, Rambagh Palace, by Dharmindar Kanwar, with photos by Bharath Ramamrutham, does justice to this jewel of a palace. Designed to be the home of a sophisticated royal family, and built by successive rulers, this book brings forth the legacy and grandeur of a bygone era. A lovely large format tome with glossy pages that try to bring to life wonderful vistas to intricate details of ornate carvings, it is nevertheless a great introduction to the palace. The book is based on interviews with members of the royal family and also features some of the exclusive documents and photographs from the personal collection of the late Rajmata, Gayatri Devi. 

Unsurprisingly, it starts with a history of the city of Jaipur and how what was not always a royal palace came to be its gem. The sprawling City Palace, still one of Jaipur's top tourist destinations, was the traditional royal palace of the ruling Kachwaha family when the story of Rambagh starts. The residence started life modestly as a four room pavilion for then ruler Ram Singh II's  wet nurse, Kesar Badaran, and was known as Kesar Badaran ka Bagh, and later Rambagh. The estate reverted to the Jaipur state after Badaran's death. Ram Singh, fond of the tranquil childhood he spent there, decided to convert it guest house and hunting lodge, and took to transforming the palace into ambitious residences. His successor Madho Singh, too undertook further extensions, increasing both the use of estate and its status. "The newly expanded palace had three separate wings and within each were one one spacious reception room and wide verandas. The hand carved marble jaalis, scalloped arches, marble pillars, courtyards, verandas, terraces, sandstone balustrades and chhatris were in keeping with (Swinton) Jacob's signature style. Gradually, Rambagh was transformed into a well-appointed, twenty-six room palatial guest house." 

There are many reflections by Gayatri Devi
on her former home

The next ruler, Man Singh II took over in 1922, and decided to make it his official residence. Along with his glamorous third wife, Gayatri Devi, he made the palace into a destination people began clamouring to get invited too. She, and other members of family, have written fondly of their times a Rambagh Palace. This book amply quotes Gayatri Devi from her memoirs, and she was a huge fan of the palace. "There was always a feeling of magic in the air at Rambagh, the fairy tale palace which was once our gracious, comfortable and happy home. 

Change was in the air however. Early on post independence Man Singh II had decided to convert the palace to a hotel, and even though Gayatri Devi has in her memoirs has written of resenting hotel guests Interloping in what was earlier her home, the couple worked hard along with their team to successfully convert the palace into a destination hotel. In 1957, the palace was closed for six months to convert it to a hotel, and was run with internal staff till the Taj Group was given charge of operating the hotel in 1972. 

There are several chapters dedicated to the aesthetics and operations of the hotel as it stands today. Wonderfully detailed close ups of the building's architecture complement the text. One can just drool over the elegance and charm of traditional architecture blending into contemporary amenities.  Double spreads showcase corridors, lobbies, gardens, vintage cars, buggies, elephants, lattice work, cupolas, fountains - there is a lot for a fan of architecture and interiors that make it really drool worthy. 

The Oriental Room offers a great venue for parties

The chapter on food at the palace is also something for the reader to salivate over. From elaborate afternoon teas to silver thalis to dine from, and beautiful locations to choose from, royal menus, many of the erstwhile dining traditions ave been carried on. So even now, an eight course meal at Baradari is possible, or meals at the imposing Rajput Room.  The aura of the Polo Bar, with its central blue tiled fountain, or the private parties in the magical Oriental Room, are still intact. As is fine dining at Suvarna Mahal, where, if you are so inclined, you could feel the presence of many a past celebrated diner. Who knows, there will a celeb on the next table, which given the guest profile of the hotel, is more than likely. There is spread of photos providing details of the interiors, and the intricacy of detail in each visual will make you spend time. 

It is easy to dismiss a book such as this a mere 'picture book', something to browse through in between killing time. Not so. Both the author and the photographer have done an admirable job, and the layout deserves credit too. What undoubtedly assisted however is the sheer magical charm of this palace hotel. But then, if you could stay where once Omar Sharif or Edmund Hillary or Oprah Winfrey or Michelle Yeoh once did, it would be a befitting the setting.

Halo from Hyatt

Place: MANILA

Hotel: HYATT

I guess one can judge the efficiency of a hotel if one has checked in and out of the same hotel thrice each in a span of ten days. Well, I had to do that on a recent trip to Philippines, and was based in the Hyatt in Manila on Pedro Gill and close to the waterfront. The location is convenient if you want to be in the downtown, or are a tourist. For those coming for the SMX Convention Centre, it is not far, but the traffic can be dampener.  It is just two blocks from a Robinson’s Place, so great of you want to shop or dine out. If you are in the mood for a stroll, beware of being propositioned in the streets around! 

It is a tower hotel, with rooms beginning from level four. The lobby is business like, with no seating spaces. That said, there are excellent restaurants around the corner from the lobby, and a corridor leading to the casino just a few seconds from the main lobby. I guess the hotel does not want its guests to linger! The staff is ok, not overfriendly, but helps whenever required. Check in was not fast! 

There are a few dining options at the hotel to choose from. The Lounge has live music, the Pastry Boutique is cute and has a fair range, while seafood aficionados can enjoy Fireplace. For me the best was Market Café, which had live show kitchens for a number of Asian cuisines – Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and of course Filipino. Yes, the omelette, pizza, waffles, toast sections were all present and extensive and the breakfast spread made for a great start to the day. Loved the halo halo! The lunch buffet was nice too, though not as spectacular as breakfast one. 

I stayed in three different rooms, all on different floors, and even of different layout! The rooms however were uniformly nice, though unexciting in any way. Standard, but no individuality, and there are better Hyatts around. Of course a higher floor eg 32 offered a better view a lower one, and there are some bay view rooms, though view isn’t that great. The rooms are adequate provisioned, from bathing facilities to net requirements. Not to forget the 32 inch LCDs, with a fair number of international channels. The baths are quite deep, so beware. Also, the lighting in one of the rooms was fairly dim, and lent a depressing look. 

Starry comfort

The Holiday Inn is located by
the historic Straits of Malacca

Place: MELAKA

Hotel: HOLIDAY INN

Melaka, about an hour and a half south of Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur, is one of the its two UNESCO world heritage sites. The Straits of Malacca have been a very crucial route for east Asian economies, and the sense of history is still there, through a lot of museums and ships replicas strewn around this picturesque city, which unsurprisingly also has some old hotels. 

Well, I got to stay in one of the newest. And it was just the best stay I have had a 4-star hotel anywhere. I was very pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality of this Holiday Inn. Holiday Inn anywhere has a winning combination in their colour scheme – white and lime green, which just makes it more soothing to look at. When I looked up this hotel online, I was a little surprised to see it was away from the centre of old Melaka, but then I realized a walk to Jonkers Street is about 15 minutes if you stop and take pictures on the way! Though I later discovered there are shuttles to the old town from the hotel, and from morning to night! 

The infinity pool and the sea beyond. Just spectacular. 

The views are very good, and even though the sea view was amazing from my room, I actually thought the city view is better, just because Melaka is such a heritage town, and it has been done up beautifully, so what if all of it is not authentically antique! It is next to a large mall, and an adjoining night market. As this is one of the tallest buildings in the city, the views from the higher floors are very rewarding. 

It is a largish hotel, 20 stories, 275 rooms and suites. The lobby is huge and welcoming in warm oriental colours. I was fortunate to visit ahead of the Chinese New Year, when it was additionally done up. There is lots of art all across the public spaces in the hotel. 

A view of es.sense

The all day dining, es.sense is again a nice option for meals. I had a sumptuous breakfast, which had Continental and local options. For a large hotel, it wasn’t that crowded either. The gym is large, the Tea Tree Spa very pretty, though did not try, the pool large. It is an infinity pool, facing the sea.

The room was great too. Spacious, well lit naturally. The white bed was good, and the colours watercolours of Melaka contrasted well. Little touches, like a great platform to keep luggage at a good height, added to the pleasure. It has all the requirements of a business hotel. Most important, the net is easy to connect to. TV, pillows, ample docking stations, alarm clocks, easy to figure out switches(!), ironing board, tea maker, slippers, toiletries – all good. As was the staff in general.

Business at leisure

Place: KUKAS

Hotel: FAIRMONT

It is a fort, or a palace? As you approach Fairmont’s first hotel in India, the first glance may leave you momentarily perplexed. A royal welcome begins the experience as the giant wooden fortress-like gates open to shower you in rose petals, accompanied by blowing trumpets. For anyone used to the Fairmont experience globally, eg London’s Savoy, or Shanghai’s Peace, this hotel had been eagerly anticipated. The property, nestled among the Aravalli hills overlooking the fort of Amer on the outskirts of Jaipur, and just off National Highway 8, doesn’t let you down.  Spread over eight acres, and next to the Meridien, - the hotels incidentally have a common owner, the hotel is at once sparsely beautiful and opulent. The combinations of seeming opposites does not take away, but instead becomes a seamless whole. 

Jaipur teems with palace hotels, some ranked among the best in the world, and yet the city has low room inventory – palace hotels have few rooms, and had no real convention facilities till the Marriott came up in 2011. Fairmont, a group known as much for its convention hotels as well as its heritage lineage, addresses both needs – it has 250 plus plush rooms, and extensive high end conference facilities.

Designed to cater to the rapidly growing MICE market, a 60,000-square-foot conference centre comes with its own dedicated event space and catering. “We address a large NRI wedding market,” says Atul Lall, GM, who also expects to convention centre to offset the seasonality of Jaipur’s tourism market. 

The expansive convention hall being prepared for an event

The convention hall, adjoining the residential block of the hotel, is simply the prettiest convention centre in India. it has its own separate entrance, so that hotel guests are not affected by the large conventions. There are five individually styled, state-of-the-art meeting rooms. The interiors are a combination of beautiful indigo and gold - as arches, pillars and motifs, white marble staircases, intricate lattice work, lamps you are more likely to encounter in Moroccan tents, white stucco relief floral patterns, swaying curtains in matching colours create luminous magic. Budget some time to just stand and admire!  

A resident falconer explains intricacies of his craft

Jaipur hasn’t lacked for activities ever, especially in of the sightseeing and cultural variety, but just in case you were intrigued – there is falconry, elephant polo, hiking and bike trails, not forgetting monuments and extensive shopping! Outdoor tents (again very pretty!) with musicians, log fires, spicy tikkas and single malts round up an average winter evening in the hotel.

Another wow moment for the hotel, and a continuous one at that, is its design. It’s exterior may look to be a fort, inside it has all the opulence of an erstwhile royal palace. Whether Mughal or Rajput is a more difficult poser, given that there are elements from both influences, though leaning more towards the former. The reception - spacious, studded with sofas, low tables, lamps more unusually swords and tent chairs, has islands of rich warm colours in a sea of whitewashed yellow and white walls. 

Exploring this property – an extensive 8 acres plus – takes a while, but there is little doubt that you will want to see every nook and cranny. Picturesque architectural or aesthetic flourishes with a touch to heritage are all over – carved pillars, Shahjahani arches, chhatris, mud coloured walls, hand painting all over, stucco relief on walls, antique looking beds, doors and windows in a variety of options – wooden with metal studs, inlay work; There’s gilt edged mirrors, glass topped tables with silver receptacles, mood lighting, pastel lampshades in walls, brass ones on tables, teak wood cupboards that would not be out of place in a Shekhavati haveli, traditional staff uniforms, patterned gardens, exquisite colour combinations dominated by a deep blue and silver or gold combinations offset the surrounding gold of the sand. 

The rooms are warm, inviting and rich in details

Another facet you need to be aware of - you will be very reluctant to leave the rooms. Whether they are the Gold rooms or the regular ones, the extent of detailing is sure to leave any one pleasant awestruck, and sent off on another exploratory note. Note the gold category rooms are in gold and blue, while white/ silver and blue is the combination for the other category. The four poster bed, the brass lamps, stately desks, silver hued clock, and matching napkin holder, a stark white lounger, wall paintings, stucco relief, designer cupboard doors, fans in the classic look, a welcome chocolate in the form of a cannon and cannon balls! ... there's a lot to be seen till you come to the real surprise, and one that could best any competition in its category easily. 

Pictures do no justice to the washrooms, they have to experienced!

That washrooms could be so atmospheric is a realization that dawns only after one has stayed in a Fairmont Gold room. A huge bath the middle dominates the area, while sytilised basins, bath stands, brass taps, soap dishes, gilt edged mirrors, cute receptacles for cosmetics, perfect lighting... the benchmark has been raised, rest of industry!

All day dining destination Zoya is prettiness exemplified, with matching food served a relaxed atmosphere

Given that the hotel works as much as a destination in itself, there are a number of culinary options, each more stunning than the other. Zoya is underserved by being labeled as all day dining, for both in interiors and cuisine, it is a destination in itself. Chef Anurag Bali points out that great care has been taken to select both the menu and the elements of the restaurant – from Villeroy and Boch cutlery to custom made blue glasses from Moradabad while the platters come from Glass Studio in faraway Piraeus, Greece. “We get rose petals from Lucknow, spices from Delhi’s Khari Baoli, mozzarella from a vendor in Gurgaon…” The food is “authentically local” he says, pointing to the Bhavnagari Mirch as a signature dish, though there are vast choices of western, oriental and Indian cuisine. 

A beautiful day bar Anjum, and a cosy evening bar, Aza, offer refuge for those seeking serenity, and a refreshing cuppa / something stronger.  

At about $300 a night, the experience will come at a price, but nevertheless make you want to repeat the indulgence! 

Regal splendour

Place: JODHPUR

Stand almost anywhere in Jodhpur, and the most impressive sight is likely to be the Mehrangarh Fort. Perched at a height atop a hill, this historic fort is the stuff of history and legend. As you enter you cannot but be thrilled and struck by the sheer stolidity of the walls, the delicacy of the palace carvings, the complexity in architecture – usual notions of number of storeys do not exist here, and wealth that once awed whoever came. Well, awed we still are.

A former stronghold of the Marwar dynasties, this about 550-year old fort is today one of the most impressive forts in India - as much for its size and architecture as its upkeep. The fort, build by one of Jodhpur’s most influential leaders, Rao Jodha (1438-89) of the Rathore clan, who also founded the city named after him, though today a lot of what stands in the fort was built during the time of Jaswant Singh and Ajit Singh about two centuries later. Over centuries, as invaders and allies broke through the massive walls, at places over 20 feet thick, but the fort structure has endured and today attracts visitors from far and near.

Note the sheer fall of some of
the palaces inside the fort.
Note too the details in carving!

Be prepared to get tired as you explore the extensive fort, which has many mahals and open courtyards and grounds and gardens. the architecture is a mix of styles and periods, and like many forts of the region, the layout is haphazard - intentionally so, for no one looking from outside can guess the what lies next to a wall or building. As Marwar was for along aligned to the Mughals, there are Mughal influences in the fort architecture and aesthetics too. The buildings often rise steeply next to cliffs, and have exquisite carving and detailing on them, leaving to ponder just how challenging it must have been for the workers. There are multiple buildings, though the usual tourist path is well marked and covers the main ones.

Long corridors are fronted by elaborate jharokhas as palaces mesh
into each other in a seamless complex

Today the Mehrangarh Trust takes care of the fort, making it one the best kept forts in the country, an example for heritage conservationists. headed by the current head of the erstwhile royal family, the conservation of this fort has earned it global kudos.

The palaces today serve as museum rooms. There are many artifacts kept preserved from the past, including palanquins or howdahs - which is first gallery you see, and it is stunning to see these. You look at them and wonder how difficult transporting them would have been, especially in the uneven terrain, though they have been a relief in the summer sun. They look small and uncomfortable to be seated in, though the work on them is lovely.

Elaborate palace interiors, complete with gilt coverings and
stained glass windows combine with traditional designs

The interiors are rich and indicate past splendour. There are separate areas for weapons, scrolls, manuscripts, utensils, carpets, brocades, and much more. A unique collection is of children's cradles, kept in a narrow room. There is wall for ceremonial turbans too.  There is a fairly extensive painting gallery, largely dating to later centuries and in the Rajput style of painting. Some rooms have been preserved as they were eg a bedroom etc.

The fort also offers spectacular views of the city, and if look around, you will see why the city is called ‘blue city’. Exploring the fort is great fun, especially understanding how people lived and worked and rested in this sealed complex.

The beautiful Chokelao Bagh 

There is an ambitious garden called Chokelao Bagh, which provides a green oasis within the fort. Towards the back of the fort are water reservoirs. Visit them just to see the stupendous amount of planning required to bring the water and keep it clean. On the way are gates and mazes that you will just have to step into.

The fort is fairly clean, there are enough staff, there are refreshment shops at upper levels too - very thoughtful so you don’t have to huff and puff back and forth. Cameras are at a fee, and gift shop has some lovely stuff, even if they are a tad expensive.

Lights at the zenana courtyard. At night the fort
transforms into a simmering ship in a sea of darkness

Possibly the most sensible time to visit is winter, but the fort also has a temple that is visited by thousands, largely locals, and also has annual fairs, when it comes to life. Another great time to visit is during the Jodhpur Riff, when the festival remains up all night, swinging to the beats of musicians far and near.