Patience pays

Place: KOCHI

Somewhere in the backwaters near Kochi

Little canoes are still a basis for livelihood for traditional fisherfolk in Kerala. They may look flimsy, but they nevertheless serve their owners well and are capable of trips not just in the backwaters but also occasionally do short trips by the sea shore.

PHOTOESSAY: Kochi by the sea

Place: KOCHI

A few snapshots of Kochi, Kerala's largest city and its financial hub. In recent years, the city has grown enormously, becoming Kerala's first million plus city in the previous decade. But what makes it special is its status as a port, its connection  with water.

A lot like love

Place: DELHI

It’s been an interrupted love story. The spark had been immediate, more than a century ago. The India story in biz may be a future tale, still in its nascent stages, the cultural efflorescence started long ago. And among earliest responsible for taking the Indian motif global was the Cartier. Decades later, it’s now a period of reunion, one that comes after long years of separation.

Cartier's Inde Mysterieuse necklace

Jeweller to Kings, King of Jewellers. Cartier can perhaps justifiably preen itself for being the top name in the watch and jewellery brand section. Globally, the 160-year old brand has become the byword for jewelled excellence. It made the world’s first men’s wristwatch. It was only after Albert Cartier set up shop there in 1899 that Rue de la Paix became the global hub of premium jewellery. Today, Cartier’s jewellery is only sold through its boutique, a reason why Indians had to shop for Cartier necklaces and tiaras in London or Paris.

Old connections
The establishment of the first boutique in India means the famed collections are now available much closer home for its clientele. Partnering with Navratna Bharat Retail Pvt Ltd, Cartier came back to India this month after exiting in the tumultuous years of the Second World War. Richemont SA-owned Cartier, recently opened its first boutique, after the 1940s in India earlier this year Delhi’s plush Emporio. The brand owns 51% stake in the joint venture.

As the preferred brand of most of India’s erstwhile maharajas, the old connection now reaches another level. The company, part of the world’s second largest luxury group, Richemont, whose global presence includes some of the most prestigious names in the luxury industry including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, Panerai and Montblanc. Cartier alone has 260 boutiques across the world.

“Location is crucial for us, and we needed a location like this,” Patrick Normand, Managing Director, Cartier, said at the launch of the 300m2 store. The store has been designed by the Bruno Moinard, who has also designed the legendary Cartier stores around the world. Normand is scouting for sites in Mumbai, which will have the next company store, though the date is still not decided. “We want to understand our customer’s requirements. We will only expand when we feel the time is right.”

Cartier will retail its watch and accessory ranges from the store too, though Normand stops short of calling it a flagship store for the brand. Iconic ranges of the like Panther, Caresse d’Orchidees, Delices de Cartier and others will be available at the store. India has been a frequent inspiration for designs, and its 2008 collection, Inde Mysterieuse, brings out the way Cartier’s Paris-based design team has brought out the brand. “We are different from other luxury brands in the sense that India is part of our creative process,” he says.

Normand also discounts fears about a sales dip due to the prevailing downturn in the market. “We are in India for the long run,” he said, pointing the long history of the brand had seen many an economic up and down. He is quick to point out that unlike a fashion purchase, a Cartier piece is seen as an heirloom and in a society like India’s should find especial value.

A store official says many who have been frequenting the store since its soft launch in October have been surprised by the concept of the store, the way they are taken care of, the reading area and have ended up enjoying the experience. Normand admits that while the store is not as big as the in Dubai, — that’s about 700m2 — the Delhi store is one of the largest and will provide the entire Cartier experience.

For the long haul
And unlike a lot of global luxury brands entering the Indian market now, Cartier had a close association with India over the years. Louis Cartier first made the long journey to India in 1911 — and it was a good business decision as the top line maharajas and their retinue — in Hyderabad, Baroda, Rampur, Kapurthala, Patiala — could not resist working on the charm and sophistication. And the journey did not remain one way as Cartier’s opulent Indian designs soon began finding a market in the West as well. Cartier organised a special exhibition in New York’s Fifth Avenue in 1913. 20 pieces, drawn loosely on Islamic and Indian art were presented.

Indeed, besides Paris, New York and London have grown to become second homes for the brand. About 95% of the manufacturing for the brand happens in France and Switzerland. “Yes, we have an Indian in our creative team in Paris,” Normand says in response to a query on design influences from around the world. “We do not design for specific countries.”

Cartier, to promote the brand, will also host events. The ‘Travel with Style’ Concours d’Élégance, held at Mumbai’s Royal Western India Turf Club, was a case in point. “We aim to be a daily luxury store,” says Normand. Time will tell, and perhaps none better than a Cartier watch to tell it!

Visions of splendour: Views of the Cartier store in Delhi, top left, as it looked in its earlier version before the Second World War and top right, the swanky version now; below, the cover of the Cartier exhibition held in New York in 1913; left, Patrick Normand; far left above, the then maharajah of Indore, Yashwant Rao Holkar and three of his sons

Taj from the West
To mark its official entry into India, Cartier announced the launch of a limited edition watch as it finally opened its first boutique in India, marking its entry into a market that is still at the nascent stages of luxury retail but shows potential. Just 15 of the Santos Taj Mahal, a limited edition watch have been manufactured. A handcrafted watch, this gold and diamond Swiss watch also uses onyx, quartz and mother of pearl. The 18 carat watch has about a carat of diamond as well, including round ones on bezel.

The collector’s edition watch is priced at Rs 40 lakh.

To heaven's above

Place: DELHI

Over 800 years old, and still standing! The original tower dates back to the first decade of the 13th century, and some upper floors have fallen and have been rebuilt since then.

Easily among Delhi's most spectacular monuments, it is also one of its oldest. And at 72 metres, also amongst its tallest. Built at the instructions of Qutb al din Ai Beg, this is perhaps the earliest monument ascribable to the 'islamic' rulers of Delhi.

There are still people in Delhi who have not visited the Qutab Minar, and its not because they were too caught up in the struggles of life, but just that it wasn't important enough! For people from around the world however, it remains a favourite with thousands visiting it daily. 

Common way

A view of the readymade garments market at Janpath

Place:  DELHI 


Janpath is one of the most well known roads in Delhi. Once a busy commercial area, Janpath in central Delhi is one of the radial roads emerging from Connaught Place.

Janpath is still home to a lot of offices, though as the focus of the city has moved out of Connaught Place, Janpath too has suffered in the sense of no longer being seen as 'trendy'. It has lost out as new malls and a spread of the city have opened new hangouts for the city's young.

This north south heavily tree lined road was once called Queensway, and lets start our journey from the north end of this road.

The readymade clothes market to the west of the road is easily the most popular part of the road, which opened in 1931 as a new capital of India was inaugurated by the British. It has come up rather haphazardly, as a result is dependent on the shape of the major buildings - LIC Building, then Indian Oil Bhavan and Scindhia House on the other side.

The market offers great opportunity for the budget shopper, so it no surprise that college students are amongst its biggest patrons. Trendy knock offs of the latest fashion are readily available, though again the market's heydeys were in the years before mid range retail came into India. Jeans, trousers, capris, shirts, skirts, ethnic dresses, shorts, minis, scarves, fake pashmina shawls .... Just remember, bargain. Prices are usually 50 to 80% higher than the actual price! Add to this junk jewellery - lots of it, glass vases, curios, lamps, pens, mirrors, colour painitings, crafts, even an odd second hand book store, and this is a great place for visitors who have to take curios. Interesting stores include Handpaper and Tantra.

An extension is the Tibetan market, immediately after the crossing also the west, which has more curios, from tangkhas to block print stubs to brass lamps. The tone of the stores is far more momento-ish, and are more closed. Don't expect too much Tibetan stuff though.

But Janpath does not end at the flea market. The road also has fancier retail including Tribhuvandas Bhimji Zaveri (jewellery), Ferrari etc. Possibly the best retail destination is Central Cottage Industries Emporium, better known as Cottage, which is close to the main market, across the first crossing on the east. Check it out for ceramics, silver and brass ware, textiles, crafts, folk art, etc. A must for summers, when temperatures outside at midday can touch 45C.

This is followed by a few office blocks. There are many important offices on this road, including headquarters for telecom companies MTNL and BSNL, Western Court, State Trading Corporation (STC).

Across the road, hidden from view by the Tibetan Market, is the Imperial, the oldest five star hotel in the city and one of its best. Do check it out even if you do not stay here - at over $200 a night, it can be out of reach for many. Soon after it is the state run and much less venerable Janpath hotel.

The first roundabout is ringed by two major hotels. The Meridien, part of Starwood, is known for chic design and Panju shaadis. The Shangri-la, not a patch on the other hotels the brand has globally, nevertheless has a few bright spots including its oriental restaurant.

Continuing down the road to the west is the National Archives, not easily accessible. Across the road is the Indira Gandhi National Centre for Arts (IGNCA), which has some great exhibitions. Janpath here crosses Rajpath, once Kingsway and still amongst Delhi's showcase roads. Take a moment to look towards India Gate on way and the Rashtrapati Bhawan the other way. Cameras to the duty, please.

Delhi's top museum, National Museum is further this road to the east. While it cannot compare with its famed counterparts from around the world, it still offers an introduction to Indian history. It also has a museum shop, but is of stock of almost whatever you ask for. If the Gandhara Buddha bust or replicas of Indus Valley seals are available, get extras. The new office of the external affairs ministry has opened across the road.

The south end of the road is home to some politicians, all behind high fences. There are many eateries and coffee shops along the way, along with every hotel having its F&B outlets. Try Fresc Co for Italian, Saravana Bhavan for south Indian, or if in the mood to spend the Spice Route or 1911 at Imperial.

In winter, a walk down the road is good idea to get an idea of Delhi of yore. 

Apple blossom

Place: DHANAULTI

Apple blossoms in full bloom. At the Apple Orchard Resort at Dhanaulti in Uttarakhand.

We had gone over for lunch soon after checking into our hotel. The walk, through acres of forest land and in the midst of a light drizzle had been enchanting - crisp, cool weather, lush forest, birds chirping even in midday, the aroma of wild flowers and pines. A long, leisurely lunch later, we bid farewell with great reluctance. 

Criminal waste

Film spools at NFAI, Pune

Place: PUNE

Original spools of Ritwik Ghatak's Meghe Dhaka Tara lying on the floor along with many others at the National Film Archives of India in Pune.

As you can see, the condition of these irreplaceable parts of India's cinematic history, indeed contemporary India's history, are in such a pathetic condition. This visit had brought tears to my eyes, and I wanted to shout at the head of the institute, who happened to be there at the time. But I guess the government of India has appropriated numerous national assets that they did not create, and therefore know not its real value. And only half hearted efforts at preserving them. 

Some private initiatives are doing film restoration of Indian films, but considerable parts of our cinematic history are gone already :(