Art house hospitality

Place: CHURI AJITGARH

Hotel: VIVAANA

While Vivaana offers the comforts of a modern boutique hotel, its heritage will make your visit memorable

The haveli is an imposing 125 year old richly
adorned erstwhile townhouse

However much you think you have ‘done’ Rajasthan - seen all the majestic forts, lived vicariously as a pretend royal in palace hotels, been to camel safaris and heard desert music, shooed birds and made faces at tigers – from a distance of course, shopped and gorged and swung between the authentic and exotica, along comes the next destination. 

Shekhawati is a special part of Rajasthan. Unlike most of the state, is green, lays high priority to education, exports entrepreneurs and paints its houses as few anywhere do. At first glance Churi Ajitgarh, a little brown hamlet somewhere in the middle of this edge-of-desert region, has little to offer to the tourist. 

Vivaana's best feature are its
original paintings, lovingly restored

But look closer, and every wall of the old havelis of the now twin villages of Churi and Ajitgarh are just waiting for people to decipher their tapestries. A royal court here, traders there, a garden in its splendour, Radha and Krishna dancing, scenes from the ancient myths, impossibly attired people, floral patterns, even British soldiers – it’s a rich tapestry of visual history that entices anyone willing to spend time traipsing around the unpaved, soft twisting lanes that are flanked by many majestic havelis, an occasional mandir, madrasa or johad, and even a colonial style garden, complete with follies with cupolas! Check out Nemani Kothi for the best art. 

Painted havelis are a hallmark of the region, and many today have been restored, some well, others criminally badly. Vivaana, a new boutique heritage hotel, the first in Churi Ajitgarh, has chosen to let its richly painted walls remain as they were, while restoring a two adjacent late 19th century havelis and converting them to a 23-room hotel. For owners Atul and Devna Khanna, it has been a labour of love. And it shows – each room is distinct, stocked with period furniture, and complemented by modern amenities, though no television or refrigerators. 

Paintings cover most wall surfaces at Vivaana. Note the expressions on Radha and Krishna in this work. Priceless.

The rooms even have original frescos – while most have religious or everyday life themes, there are even erotic ones. Restoration took quite a few years, say the Khannas, a Delhi based entrepreneur couple. While they have tried to maintain the traditional look, some changes had to be made for it to be modern hotel. The rooms added washrooms, electricity has been brought in. Some open spaces have been converted (the elephant stable is now the spa). Changes included adding a green colour to doors to rnliven the inner courtyards, a step not well received by purists, recollects Atul Khanna. 

Intach was involved in the restoration, and there is actually a little tucked away museum that illustrates the story of restoration. It offers a fascinating story of how this property transformed to a hotel, from when Khanna and his son Shiven, now a lawyer in Bombay, found this haveli about five years ago to how the former owner's family had to be persuaded to sell an adjoining haveli. 

A grand tea room on the upper level of one the havelis

For the average guest however, a stay here is akin to time travel, albeit with a modern spa, pool, bar, restaurant, tea lounge, library, game room, gardens and other modern facilities. Rich detailing in the selection of interiors, from furniture to crockery to curios, is guaranteed to make the guest delight in quaintly informal home. Look out for the old world safes, the beautiful courtyard flanked on one side the reception, the way the name of the hotel is written outside (on an orange Amby’s numberplate).  Service unsurprisingly is personalized, right from the entry heralded by musicians playing traditional trumpets to gently falling rose petals. 

While an art lover will fall short of time, given the huge expanse of paintings in Vivaana, and indeed Churi Ajitgarh, other options for entertainment are also available, such as camel safaris, admire the visiting peacocks or visits to neighbouring towns such as Mandawa, Nawalgarh and Fatehpur, also known for their painted havelis. The evenings have cultural shows, but you could relax by the pool, or indeed in it, or marvel at the brightness of the stars in the inky blue skies that India’s urban dwellers no longer get at home! Vivaana is a corner of Rajasthan you will be glad to have discovered. 

Churi Ajitgarh has many havelis
that if restored, could make it a
 bigger destination for tourists

-----------
Checklist: 

GETTING THERE: About 260 kms from Delhi, and 142 kms from Jaipur. Easy access by roads, which are of decent quality too! Nearest airports at Jaipur, nearest railway station at Mukundgarh, 5 kms away 

WEATHER: North Indian weather – hot summers, cool winter, can get chilly in the evenings

ROOMS: 23, each unique

AMENITIES: Includes free internet - check connectivity though :); pool, spa, fitness centre, room service, kitchenette; missing - televisions, refrigerators

TARIFF: Mid range

Royal setting

Place: JAIPUR 

Book: RAMBAGH PALACE

The first time I drove in through  imposing gates of Rambagh Palace, I was so struck by the magnificence of its gardens that I momentarily forgot there was a building to get to.  My green senses amply satiated, I entered portals of the palace. Once again I was struck by the sheer grandeur as much as the refined sophistication of the  palace. Entering from what I later realized was the former zenana entrance, the next few hours were dedicated to exploring what I realised would be one of the finest palaces or hotels I would ever visit.

That India's palace hotels have a place of their in the global corridors of luxury is well known. These properties, whose guest list reads like the invite wish  list of a elite party, hardly need more publicity. So this book, published by the Taj Group of hotels, which operates a number of palace hotels, with Jaipur's Rambagh Palace as one its prime jewels. 

The beautiful exteriors of the Rambagh Palace, today a hotel managed by the Taj Group

The book, Rambagh Palace, by Dharmindar Kanwar, with photos by Bharath Ramamrutham, does justice to this jewel of a palace. Designed to be the home of a sophisticated royal family, and built by successive rulers, this book brings forth the legacy and grandeur of a bygone era. A lovely large format tome with glossy pages that try to bring to life wonderful vistas to intricate details of ornate carvings, it is nevertheless a great introduction to the palace. The book is based on interviews with members of the royal family and also features some of the exclusive documents and photographs from the personal collection of the late Rajmata, Gayatri Devi. 

Unsurprisingly, it starts with a history of the city of Jaipur and how what was not always a royal palace came to be its gem. The sprawling City Palace, still one of Jaipur's top tourist destinations, was the traditional royal palace of the ruling Kachwaha family when the story of Rambagh starts. The residence started life modestly as a four room pavilion for then ruler Ram Singh II's  wet nurse, Kesar Badaran, and was known as Kesar Badaran ka Bagh, and later Rambagh. The estate reverted to the Jaipur state after Badaran's death. Ram Singh, fond of the tranquil childhood he spent there, decided to convert it guest house and hunting lodge, and took to transforming the palace into ambitious residences. His successor Madho Singh, too undertook further extensions, increasing both the use of estate and its status. "The newly expanded palace had three separate wings and within each were one one spacious reception room and wide verandas. The hand carved marble jaalis, scalloped arches, marble pillars, courtyards, verandas, terraces, sandstone balustrades and chhatris were in keeping with (Swinton) Jacob's signature style. Gradually, Rambagh was transformed into a well-appointed, twenty-six room palatial guest house." 

There are many reflections by Gayatri Devi
on her former home

The next ruler, Man Singh II took over in 1922, and decided to make it his official residence. Along with his glamorous third wife, Gayatri Devi, he made the palace into a destination people began clamouring to get invited too. She, and other members of family, have written fondly of their times a Rambagh Palace. This book amply quotes Gayatri Devi from her memoirs, and she was a huge fan of the palace. "There was always a feeling of magic in the air at Rambagh, the fairy tale palace which was once our gracious, comfortable and happy home. 

Change was in the air however. Early on post independence Man Singh II had decided to convert the palace to a hotel, and even though Gayatri Devi has in her memoirs has written of resenting hotel guests Interloping in what was earlier her home, the couple worked hard along with their team to successfully convert the palace into a destination hotel. In 1957, the palace was closed for six months to convert it to a hotel, and was run with internal staff till the Taj Group was given charge of operating the hotel in 1972. 

There are several chapters dedicated to the aesthetics and operations of the hotel as it stands today. Wonderfully detailed close ups of the building's architecture complement the text. One can just drool over the elegance and charm of traditional architecture blending into contemporary amenities.  Double spreads showcase corridors, lobbies, gardens, vintage cars, buggies, elephants, lattice work, cupolas, fountains - there is a lot for a fan of architecture and interiors that make it really drool worthy. 

The Oriental Room offers a great venue for parties

The chapter on food at the palace is also something for the reader to salivate over. From elaborate afternoon teas to silver thalis to dine from, and beautiful locations to choose from, royal menus, many of the erstwhile dining traditions ave been carried on. So even now, an eight course meal at Baradari is possible, or meals at the imposing Rajput Room.  The aura of the Polo Bar, with its central blue tiled fountain, or the private parties in the magical Oriental Room, are still intact. As is fine dining at Suvarna Mahal, where, if you are so inclined, you could feel the presence of many a past celebrated diner. Who knows, there will a celeb on the next table, which given the guest profile of the hotel, is more than likely. There is spread of photos providing details of the interiors, and the intricacy of detail in each visual will make you spend time. 

It is easy to dismiss a book such as this a mere 'picture book', something to browse through in between killing time. Not so. Both the author and the photographer have done an admirable job, and the layout deserves credit too. What undoubtedly assisted however is the sheer magical charm of this palace hotel. But then, if you could stay where once Omar Sharif or Edmund Hillary or Oprah Winfrey or Michelle Yeoh once did, it would be a befitting the setting.

Regal splendour

Place: JODHPUR

Stand almost anywhere in Jodhpur, and the most impressive sight is likely to be the Mehrangarh Fort. Perched at a height atop a hill, this historic fort is the stuff of history and legend. As you enter you cannot but be thrilled and struck by the sheer stolidity of the walls, the delicacy of the palace carvings, the complexity in architecture – usual notions of number of storeys do not exist here, and wealth that once awed whoever came. Well, awed we still are.

A former stronghold of the Marwar dynasties, this about 550-year old fort is today one of the most impressive forts in India - as much for its size and architecture as its upkeep. The fort, build by one of Jodhpur’s most influential leaders, Rao Jodha (1438-89) of the Rathore clan, who also founded the city named after him, though today a lot of what stands in the fort was built during the time of Jaswant Singh and Ajit Singh about two centuries later. Over centuries, as invaders and allies broke through the massive walls, at places over 20 feet thick, but the fort structure has endured and today attracts visitors from far and near.

Note the sheer fall of some of
the palaces inside the fort.
Note too the details in carving!

Be prepared to get tired as you explore the extensive fort, which has many mahals and open courtyards and grounds and gardens. the architecture is a mix of styles and periods, and like many forts of the region, the layout is haphazard - intentionally so, for no one looking from outside can guess the what lies next to a wall or building. As Marwar was for along aligned to the Mughals, there are Mughal influences in the fort architecture and aesthetics too. The buildings often rise steeply next to cliffs, and have exquisite carving and detailing on them, leaving to ponder just how challenging it must have been for the workers. There are multiple buildings, though the usual tourist path is well marked and covers the main ones.

Long corridors are fronted by elaborate jharokhas as palaces mesh
into each other in a seamless complex

Today the Mehrangarh Trust takes care of the fort, making it one the best kept forts in the country, an example for heritage conservationists. headed by the current head of the erstwhile royal family, the conservation of this fort has earned it global kudos.

The palaces today serve as museum rooms. There are many artifacts kept preserved from the past, including palanquins or howdahs - which is first gallery you see, and it is stunning to see these. You look at them and wonder how difficult transporting them would have been, especially in the uneven terrain, though they have been a relief in the summer sun. They look small and uncomfortable to be seated in, though the work on them is lovely.

Elaborate palace interiors, complete with gilt coverings and
stained glass windows combine with traditional designs

The interiors are rich and indicate past splendour. There are separate areas for weapons, scrolls, manuscripts, utensils, carpets, brocades, and much more. A unique collection is of children's cradles, kept in a narrow room. There is wall for ceremonial turbans too.  There is a fairly extensive painting gallery, largely dating to later centuries and in the Rajput style of painting. Some rooms have been preserved as they were eg a bedroom etc.

The fort also offers spectacular views of the city, and if look around, you will see why the city is called ‘blue city’. Exploring the fort is great fun, especially understanding how people lived and worked and rested in this sealed complex.

The beautiful Chokelao Bagh 

There is an ambitious garden called Chokelao Bagh, which provides a green oasis within the fort. Towards the back of the fort are water reservoirs. Visit them just to see the stupendous amount of planning required to bring the water and keep it clean. On the way are gates and mazes that you will just have to step into.

The fort is fairly clean, there are enough staff, there are refreshment shops at upper levels too - very thoughtful so you don’t have to huff and puff back and forth. Cameras are at a fee, and gift shop has some lovely stuff, even if they are a tad expensive.

Lights at the zenana courtyard. At night the fort
transforms into a simmering ship in a sea of darkness

Possibly the most sensible time to visit is winter, but the fort also has a temple that is visited by thousands, largely locals, and also has annual fairs, when it comes to life. Another great time to visit is during the Jodhpur Riff, when the festival remains up all night, swinging to the beats of musicians far and near.

A bird on the tree...

.. is worth many in the hand.

Place: BHARATPUR 

It was an unusual time to go to Bharatpur. However a visit to the sanctuary has been always rewarding for me. The solitude, the flora and fauna, like a visit to any other forest, it is such a blissful getaway. Not just in the negative sense of escaping the city, but also for the sheer joy of being a place of calmness, where nature rules, albeit with some help from activists and forest officials.

This is a view from the main road that leads straight inside the sanctuary. The water, once naturally available but now artificially maintained, is the reason why birds continue to flock here. 

Waiting in anticipation

Place: JAIPUR

At the 2010 edition of the Jaipur Literature Festival.

This was the year it really began bursting at its seams as it became an extended outpost of the Delhi party scene. Creditably, there are some literature fans who manage to make the festival worth its while, along with the writers and organisers of course. Highlights that year included Hanif Qureishi, Alexander MacQueen, Amit Chaudhari