An eastern getaway

Place: KOLKATA

The Gateway brand is explained in a section of the lobby! 

Hotel: GATEWAY

Kolkata’s second property from the Taj group, after the splendidly regal Taj Bengal, has been a long anticipated one. Well, Gateway, located along the EM Bypass, does not actually flaunt the Taj brand, though everyone around seems to be aware of it. Even though the group classifies this as a 5-star hotel, do not expect the luxury of a usual hotel of that standard. This brand is more minimal. The design is Spartan, as is the way the brand name appears, off centre. Creditably, there is a corner next to the deli that actually sees to explain the brand!

The lobby shape follows that of the hotel and gives a warm, cozy feel

Meeting room

Access to the hotel is easy, as it on the busy crossing where Rashbehari Avenue joins the EM Bypass. So no problems in entering the hotel, or indeed in getting public transport from right outside the hotel. Also this side of town is an emerging area – so it has local outlets of Flury’s, Balaram Mullick and others in close proximity. Ideal for a business traveler who has work in this part of town and needs to carry back goodies from these iconic Kolkata names! It is a little far from the airport, or indeed the main rail stations, but then so is almost everywhere in the city! Also Gariahat is just about a 15 minute auto / cab ride away. South City Mall is closer. An overlooked feature, the wetlands, where the nature, and especially bird lover can really enjoy is also nearby.

A selection of the active breakfast section of the breakfast buffet

While the exterior design could have been more aesthetic, once inside, you are amidst Taj hospitality. There are fewer staff around sure than say a top end Taj, but adequate. Staff do assist with luggage, and the business centre is right next to check in. There is a meeting room next door to it, good for about 15 people.

Swirl looks set to host the hip set of this end of the city 

The all day diner, Buzz, is to the right as you enter. Quiet, spacious, well laid out, with a generous buffet, it is quite a getaway in this part of the city, and seems to be already getting used by locals. The breakfast buffet is quite a spread, and has a special section called ‘active breakfast’, which caters largely to the modern traveler with its healthy and no fuss options. Swirl, the bar, - Gateway’s f&b outlet names need a little less corporate thought input – is adjacent to it. There is a deli on the other end of the lobby floor, and has some nice options.

The lovely pool overlooking the city

The pool on the top floor is perhaps the most attractive spot. Bright blue tiles light reflect the sunlight beautifully – though I imagine this will be nicer in winter to sit besides than in sultry Kolkata summer, when inside the pool may be better. Relaxing with a mojito on a deck chair is highly recommended in the winter sun. The gym is next door as is a spa. A specialty restaurant is slated to come up, possibly of Chinese cuisine.

The rooms have a large wall feature showing the Vidyasagar Setu

The rooms are standard fare, and identical, except for the suites, which have an additional living room. Easily the most interesting feature are the multi coloured night lights – at least I hope that’s what they are – at the head of the bed controlled by a regulator usually used to control fan speeds. There is a wardrobe, a perch for luggage, a work desk with multiple plug points, a sofa and a small round table in wood. The tea/ coffee maker is well stocked, as is the mini bar. A huge image of the Vidyasagar bridge covers the entire wall behind the bed, very nice, only it makes the room appear a little small – have seen this done at Mercure hotels – definitely a different standard of hotels, so a little unexpected. The front facing rooms overlook the Rashbehari Avenue Connector, pulsating with life, with a number of hospitals across the roundabout. Net unfortunately is chargeable, but easy to connect to.

As most modern hotels do, this one too has a largish conferencing facility, with a separate entrance. Spacious, it looks capable of hosting both social events and corporate functions with equal ease. For a business traveller with work in the eastern part of the city, look no further. 

Escape to heaven on Earth...

Place: MADIKERI

The spectacular pool in the reception building, located a level below the lobby, offers a matching view of the surrounding Coorgi countryside

Hotel: VIVANTA BY TAJ 

 ... and try to make it as long a break as you can. It will still seem short!

Wow.  That’s usually the most often used word first by anyone entering the Vivanta by Taj at Coorg. Or superb. Or stunning. Or sensational. Or simply a silence. You get the drift.

The morning mist hangs low over the surrounding hills,
a view that has to be seen to be believed

It’s not their fault. As any visitor can testify, that view has few parallels, helped by the fact that there are few places as beautiful as Coorg. Think of all the clichés – rolling hills, misty mountains, lush rainforests, verdant valleys, birdsong dawns, quiet getaways, and Coorg ticks every one of them. 

Combined with the best of amenities and service, no surprises then that Taj’s ambitious new Rs 150-crore, 180-acre property looks to set new benchmarks for luxury resorts in the country.

A different view of a different pool

Nestled deep in Coorg’s hills and forests at a height of about 4,000 feet, the Vivanta by Taj Madikeri brings a new level of luxury hospitality to the area. The vast property actually includes hills and fields within its expanse, and has just 56 villas or rooms – which means solitude is a default setting here. Every villa, situated on slopes, has a view, and the exterior architecture follows the local pattern of solid platform base, seen best at the fort in Madikeri.

The slopes mean that unless you want to get tired and / or lost, you have to use, or rather be driven in the golf carts, which zoom around all day, carting guests in every direction, the only downer here as you could have to wait on busy days. Even the GM Krishan Kant may possibly drive you! Passionate about the property, he points out the must dos in the resort.

The pool inside the 3,000 sqaure foot villas. You can't imagine
greater luxury, till you get to the 9,000 square foot villa!

The rooms are spacious, and start from the 850 square feet superior charm room to the exquisite 1,400 square feet premium indulgence room. For a lifetime’s memory try the 3,000 square feet luxury bliss villa, which comes with a plunge pool and balcony. The 9,000 square feet presidential villa is just wicked – do you want to get lost? The touch of Pramod Ranjan, Non-Executive Director, Oriental Hotels, whose dream project this has been, is evident in the smallest of details across the hotel. The furniture is dominated with clean lines, the baths are extravagant, and the lighting perfect, right down to the fish trap inspired lamps. Did I mention the fireplace? Yes, every room has one, for apparently winters are cold. Could this get more perfect!

Another view  of the magical mist, imbued in
 the colours of dawn

Greens, games, grub
Being green is a way of life here – right from the way villas have been built without cutting trees to the way resources such as water and energy are used within the hotel. Earth compound bricks were used, says Ranjan, who also got all furniture except for the ones at al fresco made on site from local hardwood.  “Accessibility to the site during construction was a challenge,” says Ranjan, who started work on the hotel in 2006, with Taj joining in a year later. Closeness to nature is evident in the seasonality of food, or the extensive forest walks on offer with resident nature expert Abhishek Jain, whose knowledge of the surrounding forests will make you stretch the walk for as long as you can. He can tell you which hills offer the best views, or where the tigers are most likely to frolic!

The forests are interspersed with rice fields, part of the vast property, and a venue for leisurely conducted walks

Actually a lot of activities are on offer. The start has to be made by the inhouse museum, which showcases Coorg – and is much better than the government one at Madikeri. Col Muthanna is on hand to show you around personally. Get a great introduction to Coorg from him. There’s a resident potter, sessions for coffee tasting, yoga retreats, mountain biking, nature trails, including walks to Nishanibetta Hills and even zip lining. There are excursions to the source of the Kaveri, which begins nearby or to the largest Tibetan settlement in India at Bylekuppa, or visits to the palaces of erstwhile royals or to spice and coffee plantations. Just outside the resort is a picturesque golf course. And of course there is a gorgeous infinity pool.

While the view from the lobby is spectacular, its
interior detailing is no less impressive

Another aspect of the resort you shall indulge in are its dining options. Given the isolated location, the nearest eatery outside the hotel is quite some distance away, so the hotel has probably chosen to offer some spectacular choices. 

Describing Fern Tree as an all day dining option would be gross disservice to it, given its lavish food options, with a free side dish of views. Many drive up just for that, it seems! 

The vast hotel is sprinkled with a traditional furniture such as this
 imposing Coorgi bed

A level above with the stunning Jiva spa, also in the main block but a level below the pool, is Dew, a wellness restaurant where food is not just healthy but delectable. An experience at Nellaki, with traditional Coorgi cuisine is unforgettable for its distinct aromas and flavours. There’s the almost concealed Hive Bar. A concealed candle lit table by a natural spring that has to be seen to be believed. Easily the most spectacular experience however is dining under a star lit sky at the Poolside Grill, which has its own adjacent bar as deep hills surround you, dotted to the east with the distant shimmering of lights of Madikeri.  

Resort service standards are generally high, and the staff here go all out to make the stay memorable. Already the setting for some expensive weddings, the resort has extensive conferencing facilities too. The resort seems to fit in more with Taj’s top line palace hotels. Step in for the Taj resort experience, and make your own one of a kind memories!

Captivating Coorg

 Sun rays streaming in. Such views make any length of journey worth its while! 

Coorg, or Kodagu, has not really been on the tourism map, especially for north Indians. It’s an average of seven hours drive from the most accessible wide body plane airport, Bengaluru. Now Mangalore is about fours away, but almost agree that is not the best option, especially as road conditions aren’t great. Mysore, just two hours by road, is such a famous domestic tourist destination, but unfortunately not on the aviation map yet in any proper way, though there is talk of the current airport being expanded. That could well make the area far more accessible.  

For forest walkers, coffee is arranged deep inside the forest!

Historically distinct from both Karnataka, which it is today a part of, and adjoining Kerala, Coorgis are said to have ancestral links with the Greeks. In any case their distinctness remains to this day, with many Coorgi families still with members in the Indian army. The Indian hockey team has rarely been without a Coorgi. Yes, they are good at actually playing sports. Think Cariappa, Thimayya, Ponnacha, Muthamma, Uthappa, Nachappa, Bopanna, Somaiya, Halappa...  

Even today in this predominantly agricultural region days are languid, and food and drink free flowing, and life pleasurably slow. Major plantations of coffee and spices abound, and there are a hundreds of homestays, many of whom are popular with the global tourist. Forests are within walking distance as are valley views of dawn and dusk and the green hours in between, but only if you walk up the invitingly gentle hills all around. For anyone seeking an escape from urban hustle, look no further.

Near pavilions

The Thai Pavilion is decked in warm, welcoming colours 

Place: GURGAON 

Restaurant: THAI PAVILLION

Thai Pavillion is a welcome addition to Gurgaon’s considerable culinary space

Almost two decades after the first Thai Pavilion opened its doors at Mumbai’s Taj President, it forever altered that city’s appreciation for Thai delicacies. Now its latest edition is set to usher in a similar sweep in shiny-shabby Gurgaon’s swanky Vivanta by Taj, where the latest edition of the Pavilion has just opened. The newest edition of the restaurant, the third, after a Pavilion at Vivanta in Hyderabad’s Begumpet, also marks the first north Indian foray for the outlet.

Kai haw bai toey, marinated chicken morsels wrapped in
pandan leaves and fried

The same high standards still apply, still under eagle eyes of Executive Chef Ananda Solomon, whose success with this brand for long was a model to emulate for specialty restaurants at top end hotels. Well chef is personally in Delhi about once a month, and the team here has trained with him in Mumbai extensively. Additionally, there is a diminutive and dazzling and thankfully English speaking Thai Master Chef Prajaub Shoosridam, spending long hours in the kitchen and frowning at no chillies and other such customization requests. Yes, you are guaranteed an authentic Thai flavour here.

The wonderfully tangy Som tam, Young papaya salad combined
with sweet and spicy sauce

Nevertheless every day there are tests that must be passed successfully. A nod to Delhi’s local client palate means there is a comparatively greater stress on red meats, and well meats in general than the other outlets, but then Hyderabad is spicier. Solomon says a proper study was done of trends in Delhi before finalizing the menu. “You can’t Indianise the concept,” chef stresses. “Thai restaurants have to be authentically handled. The right combinations have to be achieved, right from the starters to the main course. Solomon is known for his adherence to the classic traditions of cuisine, be it his native Konkani or in the successful restaurants he has launched in cuisines as different as Thai and Italian.

The 80-cover Thai Pavilion carries forward the traditions of its cousins – most of the ingredients still fly in from Thailand to Mumbai and then get distributed to Hyderabad and Delhi. While chicken is an exception, almost everything else from lamb to rambutan and dragon fruit to pandan leaves, condiments and even a variety of chillies all fly in twice weekly.

The famous Thai curries - red and green, with steam rice

The menu is fairly extensive, and starters after the lovely pomegranate based welcome drink, include Sakuna chowsuan sos makam (Tempura prawns with tamarind sauce) and Kai haw bai toey (marinated chicken morsels wrapped in pandan leaves and fried), but the best choices by far are the tangy Som tam (Young papaya salad combined with sweet and spicy sauce) and Pra hed (mushrooms delicately blended with Thai herbs). There’s a vast choice of main courses, including many vegetarian ones. Apart from the most familiar, and ordered red and green curries – delicious by the way – try the Heao phad prik haeng (Water chestnuts and cashew nuts with red chili paste) or the Pia Nueng Manao (Steamed John Dory with coriander, chilly, peanut in a tangy sauce).

The restaurant itself is spacious, has a waiting lounge, which in the near future could we well used, given the restaurant’s popularity and fairly affordable pricing. Traditional Thai motifs are present and yet subtle, and the one that can become two PDRs, or private dining rooms offer a greater degree of privacy for groups. While Taj will not say how much it cost – Solomon says finding the right young people who are ready to spend long hours in the kitchen is getting harder – and a challenge for the entire sector.

Try the lovely Tub Tim Grob, Diced water chestnut with coconut milk, a dessert that will leave you
yearning for more

For those not yet favourably inclined to oriental desserts, make an exception and save space for the delectable Tub Tim Grob (Diced water chestnut with coconut milk), which is served in a scooped out raw coconut and comes with ice cream and chocolate rolls, if you like. You will ask for a refill even if you are stuffed! Or return for another helping!  

Fine dining, south Indian style

Place: CHENNAI

The interiors of the renovated Southern Spice

Restaurant: 
SOUTHERN SPICE 

It's a landmark almost as legendary as the hotel itself. So when Southern Spice at Chennai's Taj Coromandel had closed for renovation last year, it had led to a bit of a collective mourning for its regulars. 

Arguably one of the best known addresses of cuisine from the south of India, and the Taj group is fortunate in having another one in Karavalli in Bengaluru, Southern Spice has for long been a huge statement for the suitability of these cuisines qualifying for fine dining. Those familiar with its previous version have been a little bemused of a more ostentatious yet understated interiors of its new version. Now one of India’s best-known South Indian fine dining restaurants is back with an entirely new look. 

The vegetarian thali is sure to satisfy even the most demanding

Southern Spice was renovated with interior designing by Ed Poole of Singapore-based Poole Associates. All the four major states are represented both in the design and cuisine, explains general manager N Prakash about the multi crore project that is stunning all comers. Instead of the previous green chairs and the verdant look, the new look is more international. From granite bases with silver grey leafed pillars inspired from medieval temples, wall panels from different parts of the region, wall panels and floor rugs with traditional kolam patterns, design elements from across south India come together in harmony.  Specially composed classical notes waft through the restaurant. 

Kayir katti kola urundai, or
Chettinad fried meaballs 

None of this matters once you reach the table. Laid out are banana leaf shaped gold plated plates. Some servings actually come in gold serviettes. The rest matchup in design brilliance. The cuisine are a nod to sumptuous cuisines of the region, and Executive Chef Alok Anand has delved deep into the region’s culinary traditions to produce a selection  of some of the best of local vibrant flavours. "We did extensive research and travel to come up with our selection," he says. Just about a quarter of the previous dishes have been retained. 

Both the ingredients used and presentation have far more global connections. The kari varuval is made from New Zealand lamb chops! Signature dishes include Kayar Katti Yerachi Kola Urnudai, Fennel flavoured crisp lamb meat dumplings wrapped with banana fibre - a speciality from Thanjavur,  Koonu Ulli Theeyal, Button mushrooms and pearl onions in a roasted coconut curry,  Asparagus Paruppu Usili-Asparagus and steamed lentils tempered with Madras chillies and a definite must try - Chocolate Purnam Mousse-Chocolate mousse filled with coconut, lentil and jaggery mix! 

Denji Rawa Fry, a must try! 

A particular highlight are the thalis - which for many are turning out to be a once in a lifetime experience. There are quite a few thali offerings, but one that requires the gourmand to  come most prepared to appreciate the riches is the Maha Virundhu menu, at Rs 5,000 per head, traditionally the grand festive lunch served for celebratory events.  This one has 30 dishes, from tiny idlis to lettuce lentil salad through delectable rasams that have to be repeated, delectable dosas, amazing podi, soft shell crab dusted with semolina,  kola urundai, till it is impossible to look at food any more. But the Indian Chocolate Mousse, with lentils, coconut and jaggery is something one has to try, insist staff. And the persuasion is deserved, for it is a perfect fusion and melts as you connect with it. Just a suggestion, get the tips, at least till you are a regular. This gastronomic destination will beckon to you, wherever you are. 

It has been a surprise that the hospitality major, which has chosen to replicate some of its other restaurants, such as Masala Art or Thai Pavilion, has not opened more branches of Southern Spice, voted among the top 100 restaurants in the world. Till they do so, come to Chennai to experience just what a Rs 12,000 thali of 30 courses and paired with wines feels like. I did not dare ask!