PHOTOESSAY: Kolkata's water worlds

Place: KOLKATA

I was fortunate to recently have been part of a cruise up the river Hugli - from the historic Outram Ghat to Dakshineshwar. It was organised by Gateway Hotel, a new Taj property in the city.

Kolkata, largely built under British rule, was, as every city before the advent of motorised transport, a river facing city. Today, people have turned their backs on the river, but closer examination reveals signs of a time the city still faced the river - its lifeline. An occasional ruined palace facade, the Howrah station, the numerous manors, the numerous ferries and of course the omnipresent ghats, all indicate how the river was once the main road.

What was perhaps even more fortuitous was a visit to the other end of the city - to its wetlands. The wetlands have acted as a natural sponge and sewage cleanser ever since the city has been built. Signs of its existence are seen in ponds increasingly towards the eastern boundaries of the city, though today the EM Bypass effectively acts as a dam. These wetlands, protected under the Ramsar Convention after a long battle, are still not out of the woods. Today mainly used for local fishing, they deserve recognition also for their sheer resplendent beauty, as we discovered in a brief dawn trip.

Here are a few glimpses from the trip: (Click for larger views)

The historic Outram Ghat - once a crucial gateway to the city. There is still a dilapitated customs office here. 

First glimpse of the Hugli

That's our cruiser - though to reach it, we had to take another boat

The river is not as densely packed with traffic as of yore, but remnants of the past remain in fisherfolk plying their traditional trade

First views of the Vidyasagar Setu - the new bridge in Kolkata 

Gateway arranged a wonderful spread of the city's iconic street food on board, only hygenic. From jhalmuri to ghugni to sandesh and kochuri via da,b  there was much to be greedy about! 

Howrah Station, Howrah Bridge, Howrah crowds, Howrah traffic, though Kolkata contributes its bit too! 

The jetties on this river are flexible due to the tide, remarkable engineering

There are many formerly splendid homes and other structures in ruins that if restored, can make the cruise sightings far more attractive 

The incomparable Howrah Bridge, a symbol the city has been identified with ever since it was built in 1943 

Life-sized statues adorn a ruined river facing old city palace

Belur, Swami Vivekananda's creation, and today centre of the Ramakrishna Mission, viewed from the Hugli

The spectacular now twinned bridges at Bally. The older one is at the back, and was once the main connector between south Bengal and rest of India 

Fisherfolk gaze curiously at us!

Dakshineshswar Temple, today associated with Rani Rashmoni

A busy ghat at mid day. Ghats are largely ablutionary, though some are cremation ghats as well

By this time, we had already been hogging almost constantly. There was a serious amount of street food on offer. Even if it meant that we were not supposed to have all of it at one go, we outsiders were not letting this chance go. Most of us already had done a round of breakfast in the hotel, but that did not prevent us from indulging greedily at intervals. As the sun continued its journey upwards above us, most had already stopped paying attention, undeservedly, to out excellent guide, Nilima, an architect working to conserve some of the city's historic past. But the jhalmuri, rolls, puchkas etc were excellent - those we vouch for!!!

Ruins in the middle of the Hugli! Apparently too expensive to remove, but surely can be turned around to be an attraction instead? 

Last glimpse of both bridges and the river skyline

Once Kolkata's main mall, New Market retains its significance and pulls Kolkatans even today

Inside New Market - unchanged for decades, though marginally cleaner, it seemed

Who's your favourite - Kareena, Sonakshi, Deepika, or Bidya? Suit your style

The famous flower sellers of New Market - not much has changed, actually

Inside Flury's - a Kolkata landmark

A Bangladeshi flavoured dinner as we discuss the day, and plan the next

First views of the wetlands a relatively vast area of waterways - shallow ponds, rivulets and canals

Flury's, Kolkata's most famous tearoom and Swiss confectionery, is  must visit for  first time visitor to Kolkata. It has been a landmark since it opened in 1927. After years of a solitary presence on Park Street, it now has 13 outlets in Kolkata, with plans to expand in the rest of the country.

Those little houses are for people to guard the fish at night

Effortless and graceful bridge navigation - in sharp contrast to our efforts, which consisted of much handholding, reassurances, a few jibes, much shrillness and slow progress

Fresh catch of fish for the market

Beautiful ponds dot the wetlands... 

It was difficult to come away from a place where the sun
graces the water so perfectly

In the race for development, green concerns are obviously an afterthought. Numerous examples around the world - eg Aral Sea have shown how devastating the end of a water body can be. Hope all the authorities concerned realise just how precious and beautiful these wetlands are - and keep them as they are. The East Kolkata Wetlands host the largest sewage fed aquaculture in the world. Bonani Kakkad forcefully drilled into us the need to preserve them, and this is actually something the state government should adopt as a showcase to highlight the city's green credentials. The city has no primary sewage disposal unit as it is done naturally, saving enormous resources. That was truly an enriching trip - one only wished there was more time. It was lovely of Gateway to have chosen these activities, and I for one am truly grateful.