Fine dining, south Indian style

Place: CHENNAI

The interiors of the renovated Southern Spice

Restaurant: 
SOUTHERN SPICE 

It's a landmark almost as legendary as the hotel itself. So when Southern Spice at Chennai's Taj Coromandel had closed for renovation last year, it had led to a bit of a collective mourning for its regulars. 

Arguably one of the best known addresses of cuisine from the south of India, and the Taj group is fortunate in having another one in Karavalli in Bengaluru, Southern Spice has for long been a huge statement for the suitability of these cuisines qualifying for fine dining. Those familiar with its previous version have been a little bemused of a more ostentatious yet understated interiors of its new version. Now one of India’s best-known South Indian fine dining restaurants is back with an entirely new look. 

The vegetarian thali is sure to satisfy even the most demanding

Southern Spice was renovated with interior designing by Ed Poole of Singapore-based Poole Associates. All the four major states are represented both in the design and cuisine, explains general manager N Prakash about the multi crore project that is stunning all comers. Instead of the previous green chairs and the verdant look, the new look is more international. From granite bases with silver grey leafed pillars inspired from medieval temples, wall panels from different parts of the region, wall panels and floor rugs with traditional kolam patterns, design elements from across south India come together in harmony.  Specially composed classical notes waft through the restaurant. 

Kayir katti kola urundai, or
Chettinad fried meaballs 

None of this matters once you reach the table. Laid out are banana leaf shaped gold plated plates. Some servings actually come in gold serviettes. The rest matchup in design brilliance. The cuisine are a nod to sumptuous cuisines of the region, and Executive Chef Alok Anand has delved deep into the region’s culinary traditions to produce a selection  of some of the best of local vibrant flavours. "We did extensive research and travel to come up with our selection," he says. Just about a quarter of the previous dishes have been retained. 

Both the ingredients used and presentation have far more global connections. The kari varuval is made from New Zealand lamb chops! Signature dishes include Kayar Katti Yerachi Kola Urnudai, Fennel flavoured crisp lamb meat dumplings wrapped with banana fibre - a speciality from Thanjavur,  Koonu Ulli Theeyal, Button mushrooms and pearl onions in a roasted coconut curry,  Asparagus Paruppu Usili-Asparagus and steamed lentils tempered with Madras chillies and a definite must try - Chocolate Purnam Mousse-Chocolate mousse filled with coconut, lentil and jaggery mix! 

Denji Rawa Fry, a must try! 

A particular highlight are the thalis - which for many are turning out to be a once in a lifetime experience. There are quite a few thali offerings, but one that requires the gourmand to  come most prepared to appreciate the riches is the Maha Virundhu menu, at Rs 5,000 per head, traditionally the grand festive lunch served for celebratory events.  This one has 30 dishes, from tiny idlis to lettuce lentil salad through delectable rasams that have to be repeated, delectable dosas, amazing podi, soft shell crab dusted with semolina,  kola urundai, till it is impossible to look at food any more. But the Indian Chocolate Mousse, with lentils, coconut and jaggery is something one has to try, insist staff. And the persuasion is deserved, for it is a perfect fusion and melts as you connect with it. Just a suggestion, get the tips, at least till you are a regular. This gastronomic destination will beckon to you, wherever you are. 

It has been a surprise that the hospitality major, which has chosen to replicate some of its other restaurants, such as Masala Art or Thai Pavilion, has not opened more branches of Southern Spice, voted among the top 100 restaurants in the world. Till they do so, come to Chennai to experience just what a Rs 12,000 thali of 30 courses and paired with wines feels like. I did not dare ask!