Postcard perfect

Place: BRUGES

A quiet corner of charming Brugge

“It's a fairytale town, isn't it? How's a fairytale town not somebody's f***ing thing?” If you’ve seen In Bruges, a noir thriller set in this picturesque town, you will know that the Harry Waters, the person speaking the lines, is a violent crime boss who can’t understand why Ray, his henchman and on the run killer, played by Colin Farrell in arguably one of his best roles, can fail to like this historic town.

A view of Grote Markt, the heart of Bruges. Note the horse carriages and the Gothic architecture of the Provincial Court behind. Roads go out in multiple directions from here. Choose yours

Delights on sidewalks 

Well, forget Ray – he also gets dubbed “the worst tourist in the world” in the film! There’s logic to choosing Bruges, or Brugge, over others in a region known for its overdose of fairytale-pretty architecture and landscape! Now a smallish town in its heyday from the 12th to 15th centuries Bruges was a major centre of trade in western Europe. It possibly had the first stock exchange in the world when its bourse opened in 1309! Trade brought riches and culture, as it became known for its fine spinners – even now you can buy lace of all prices in the shops - and artists who worked here. For fans of history, Bruges is a treasure trove, for centuries of architecture and matching public sculpture make it an open art museum. Its city centre was one of the earliest to be put on UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Old windmills lend character to the town. And they are
beautifully manicured and preserved

What does Bruges have? Medieval Gothic houses, churches, cobbled streets, chocolate shops wherever you turn, a lovely canal with quaint boats that pass under matchingly charming bridges, an occasional horse drawn carriage ride, boat speckled canals with little flower decked stone bridges, old windmills, gardens with stunning fountains, endless fries, a variety of museums – possibly the best in the world... Add your room in the attic, complete with a charming fireplace and snow outside, a book, your favourite beverage, more fries, and you may be forgiven for thinking your must have done some good in life to deserve this slice of heaven.

As if the windows were not pretty
enough, Bruges is also the heart
of laceland

The world also must be full of do gooders much like you. For in Bruges, in a tucked away north western corner of Flanders, the Dutch speaking part of Belgium, tourists come in hordes, especially in summer. If you are not enamoured by crowds, there are enough options, just step away from Markt till it gets quieter. There are enough walkways along the canals, gardens and quiet lanes for you to soak in the refreshing aura of Bruges. Do get your hands on a map once you reach the town, and carry it along, for it will become very simple to navigate the streets that might just be empty - but then that's what you wanted, right? Just you, the cobbled street, the quiet brook, the lonely windmill, beautiful trees, a little nook to rest your limbs on, and well, no one around to ask you why...

Canals were once the economic lifeline of Bruges - now they serve tourists as faithfully!

Who can resist getting tempted to find
the treasures at the end of each lane

Just walk it
As walking (including a boat ride) is simply the best way to see Bruges, you could do it on your own by deciding your itinerary, though there are walking tours available. In this egg shaped town, you can start at the Grote Markt – yes, the great market. That’s the main square, very picturesque, boxed in by medieval Gothic buildings now fronted by cafes and boutiques. Climb up the 13th-century Belfry for a panoramic view. 366 steps, no elevator, but totally worth it! Catch your breath; take a lot of photos, including an FB cover pic.

Street musicians are common here

Historic buildings abound, so plan what you want to see. Many cobbled streets lead out of Markt. Steenstraat has the best shopping, especially for European brands. Begijnhof is traditionally a women only area. Heilige Bloed Basiliek, or the Basilica of the Holy Blood in the majestic Burg square is said to contain Jesus’ blood and dates back to the 12th century. There’s a lot, so make a list of what you want to see.

For those who wish to get an idea of how the city would have looked in medieval times, step outside the tourist zone to areas which physically have hardly changed over centuries. A walk along St Annarei and continuing north to Langerei and then walking along the canal by turning right to the windmills can be magical.

Inside the charming Choco Story, a museum dedicated to chocolate

Museums are fun too!
Museums abound in Bruges. One of the most important collections of art is in the Groeninge Museum. For those with more popular culture inclinations, there the Choco Story, a museum dedicated to chocolates, where you only get an exhaustive take into chocolate’s history and traditions, including about a thousand chocolate related objects, explains owner Cedric Van Belle. No, those early chocolate boxes are not for taking! You do however get to see chocolate being made, and sample some for free! Of course you can buy too. There are about 40 chocolate shops in this tiny town, each with collections guaranteed to dazzle you. Prepare for some heavy duty chocolate shopping – don’t even think faceless airport duty frees – there is no comparison. Here chocolates come in all shapes and sizes and flavours and combos. Many are artisanal, and handcrafted, and cost a lot. Leading brands such as Godiva have boutiques, but try the local ones like Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc or Chocolatier Van Oost if in a mood to splurge, though Stef’s is a popular, and more budget friendly option.

Street side cafes are plentiful and known for their quality cuisine 

Another popular museum is to that other staple of Belgium’s cuisine – fries. Called Frietmuseum, and just a short distance from Markt, Belgians claim they originated here and they still make them the best – so almost every dish comes with helping of fat, succulent, golden fries. For anyone with that rare disorder – need to put on weight fast – this is the place. I can vouch for adding weight part! Also popular are the Lumina Domestica, a museum to lamps and the Diamantmuseum, or diamond museum, though Antwerp, just about an hour away, is the city to go for diamonds!

Flemish stew, cooking in wine and served with
the omnipresent fries and a Reisling! 

If all this has made you hungry and thirsty, succour is around every corner. Try the Bruges special - smoked eel and mussels steamed in Riesling wine with, yes fries. For those who prefer, it comes in lamb or beef options as well. The cuisine is a mix of German/ Dutch staples with French sauces. Almost anywhere is very good, and there are lots of cafes all across, especially in the older areas. Actually, there are multiple restaurants serving Indian, read tandoori meals, but really, that’s what you want? Please tuck into another local offering - the delicious waffles instead.

Lots of local beer on offer

Beer is famous here, and available in great variety, including the Trappist ales, made traditionally by monks. For those who still have the energy, there are excellent bars and clubs – try t' Gulden Vlies or Cambrinus. The Brewery De Halve Maan doubles as a beer museum and is a very popular way to learn about beer making. Especially as it includes quaffing down Brugse Zot or Straffe Hendrik!

In a continent teeming with historic towns, Bruges was lucky enough to escape two major wars almost unscathed, and this along with modern conservation efforts, makes it a town that deserves more than just a few hours. There are any number of hotels, but choose the ones in the old houses. Johan Creytens, owner of the Relais and Chateaux-affiliated Heritage Hotel says hotels catering to every budget available. The entire city is a destination, and you will not regret extending a trip to fairy land. Hadn’t you forgotten Ray already!

Yes, Bruges is known for its roofscapes as well

TRAVEL TIPS
5 must dos: A boat ride in a canal, a ride through Markt in a horse drawn carriage, a visit to Choco Story, buy local chocolates, and lots of walking and eating.

When to go: Summer is far the most popular time to visit, and the city centre is full of tourists. However autumn and winter have their charms too, though they can get quite chilly. Be prepared for sudden showers any time, any day! Also in summer, days are very long, with daylight ending around 10pm!

Reaching there: There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Belgium’s capital Brussels, which is also connected by air and train with every major European city. From Brussels, it takes about an hour by train. Do not snooze, for you shall otherwise miss the picture perfect Flanders countryside.

Besides chocolates, tea stores are very pretty too

Within Bruges: Within the ‘egg’ or the town’s core, there walking is by far the best option. Even if you dawdle, stop to click photos, point out things to companions, walking to your destination is unlikely to take more than half an hour. Most are within ten minutes of the city’s centre. However public transport, from buses to horse carriages, do ply, though vehicles are discouraged in the city’s centre, and there are many car parks in the area where a car can be kept while you explore Bruges. Cycling is an excellent option, and bike rental stores are everywhere.

Unexpected pleasure included a rally of vintage cars,
complimenting the cobbled streets & period architecture

Language: Is not an issue as most Belgians speak English. If you know Dutch, you can get what the locals think of tourist hordes! Yes, names are long – I stayed on Niklaas Despersstraat, a lane not more than 100 metres in length! Peterseliestraat will lead you to the old windmills – there are four individually named grand specimens – while Snaggaarstraat leads you to quieter areas of Bruges. You wouldn’t want to miss Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk, a stunning church with architecture from the Romanesque era. Lucifernum is not an ode to that jealous archangel, but an excellent bar with an attached art gallery located in the old Freemasons temple. Try saying the names aloud to travelling companions before you try it on locals though!

Buying the chocolates you want is a heart wrenching task -
you obviously want some of all!

Get: A Bruges Card, which will help you access many museums at a lower price. Also have some Euros in cash, though most stores accept cards, some street side vendors prefer cash.

Keep in mind: Like much of Europe, many shops close by 6pm. Even in summer, restaurants will shut by 10pm.

Important: Get a map, and be conversant in reading it. Away from the centre, there may not enough people to ask direction always! The maps are very precise.

What a wonderful wall mount

Young children: Usually have a great time with fun museums, Boudewijn Theme Park and Dolfinarium, feeding swans, and tucking in.

For those with an eye for detail: Amazing tea shops and cafe, exquisite lace work, Flemish architectural details all around you, the Minnewater (or Love Lake – discover its romantic myth); why Bruges has to keep swans.

A version of this article was carried in the Hindu. Read it here

A place of beauty

Place: DELHI 

Innovatively designed bookshelves add to Oxford
Bookstore's considerable attraction

Shop: 
OXFORD BOOKSTORE 

Pristine white with artistic touches of colour. Heritage architecture, modern arches. A large, expansive, beautifully lit space with dining on the side – none of these are how most Indians would describe a bookstore. However entering the newest outlet of the Oxford Bookstore is a wow moment. In an era when bookstores could become history, it is a space where one wishes time would stop. While all around you are books of every shape, subject, size and shade, the store is also as much about aesthetics and the fusion of the need to cater to the mind and the senses. 

A pan India chain, that began in 1919, Oxford Bookstore had already introduced merchandise, events and dining spaces to their beautiful stores. The recent relaunch of the store in Delhi, in the heritage zone of Connaught Place, just across the road from where its earlier store was, had everyone in attendance just taken aback at the beauty of the store. 

“Through a painstaking restoration of the majestic architecture and a careful curation of the heritage spaces, we have carved out an incredible space for quiet browsing, reading and contemplation,” says Priti Paul, Director, Apeejay Surrendra Group. Just about every writer, retailer, agent, publisher and distributor came to grace the occasion. “It is a beautiful store," says Bikash Niyogi, MD, Niyogi Books, who predicts that it would be one of Delhi’s favourite hangout places. 

Prettiness is the dominant theme at the store

This store has been long in the making. “We looked at a number of locations,” she says before deciding on this one, a run-down place with false ceilings. She was clear that she wanted the store in the historic centre of town, and Connaught Place. “The restoration of the store tied in well with the restoration of Connaught Place. I felt I had to do something for the restoration of the historic area. Lots of people thought I was crazy to choose CP over the newer areas, but I was sure of my decision.” While she will not reveal how much it cost to redo, indeed restore, the 5,000 square feet store, Paul, an architect herself admits to be nervous before the opening about the acceptability of the design. “We discussed various looks, including a kitschy Indian one, and I had been thinking for long about the future of the bookstore. Delhi is about Punjabi Baroque, I was fairly extreme in my choice of white with the store,” she says. 

The neon wall in itself makes any visit special 

Oxford Bookstore is part of the Apeejay Surrendra Group, which has interests in shipping, tea, real estate, logistics and hospitality. The chain now has 16 outlets in nine cities in India. Besides the downtown stores, other formats include Oxford Junior and Oxford Express, both launched in 2006. “We have a lot of formats. Bangalore already has four formats, including one in the WIPRO campus.  The chain is expanding on its own and by franchisee outlets. 

Paul however is reluctant to talk about the chain’s future business plans. “I see a present need for bookstores,” she points out. She agrees that retail is difficult at the moment, and most of the positioning in the sector is for the future. “The dynamics of the market are changing, and while we do not what the future holds, but in India, people will still need to buy books. Competition has increased in the form of new chain stores have now come up, such as Landmark, Om Books, Crossword, Timeout, but few have ventured to being a cultural hub that the Oxford Bookstores have positioned themselves into. 

A lovely space for events is sure to add to the charm of the store

The chain, a completely integrated online offline bookstore in the country with access to six million titles worldwide, is among India’s leading stores, and has led in innovations over time. It was the first book retailing enterprise in the country to launch an interactive SMS Service in association with Mobile 365 while Oxford Über is India’s only exclusive store for lifestyle books. Paul is not a fan of soul less chain stores. “The new bookstores should be “breakaway spaces, interactive and entertainment spaces that will promote literature with related cultural and reading events – a combination of books, art, fashion, culture and food,” she says about her store.

Innovative steps also include the chain tying up with the World Wide Fund for Nature, to fund the One-Horned Rhino Conservation Project. “We will reach out to individuals of the younger generation through books and programmes to make for a better natural environment,” says Ravi Singh, secretary general, WWF-India.

Priti Paul resplendent in a
Sabyasachi saree  at the relaunch
of  Oxford Bookstore in Delhi

Paul has put a special focus on translations. Not only is there a separate section for it, it is next to Indian fiction in English, a prime position for the store. Paul feels that while Indian writers writing in English are getting their due, those writing in other Indian languages are still languishing behind. With a list of 1,000 translations, 500 in store, and with translations sourced from the global market, Paul is going all out to get the Indian reader look at translations. She has signed a distribution deal with indie publisher Katha, known for its work in translations. 

The store is getting rave reviews. No wonder Paul is beaming. She had planned a three-day stopover in Delhi after the opening of the store, and ended by staying for three weeks. “I am overwhelmed by the response to the store. People have been calling up constantly to sign up contracts, discuss deals, plan events… I had to run away home,” she says. Home is Morocco, where she has returned after two months in India. Incidentally, OBS also has an outlet in Morocco, Kathakali, which caters to African, French, English literatures, besides introducing Indian writers to the region, and which she opened last year. But it is her newest Delhi store that has excited the most. “I was offered so much, I could have tied up my calendar till next year,” she says. Enviable start for a book store! And there’s more to come, watch this space.

DECONSTRUCTION, BOOKSTORE STYLE

The spectacular Cha Bar is sure to be a meeting point for fans once again

Cha Bar, the dining area, arguably offers the world’s largest assortment of teas and cultural tea preparations, and continues the heritage theme of the rest of the store, and also in white. 
Neon Wall, a cloud of words in English-Hindi-Latin that envelopes book lovers in a universe of emotions linking them to reading

Reading Room, a place where guests can read at leisure, especially young ones. Also a space where events can be held. 

While all the regular sections – fiction, travel, management and all the rest are there, an interesting section is translations, a section not usually found in stores any more, is a highlight as the chain seeks to promote books in various Indian languages and their translations. The store unveiled the section on ‘Translations and the many Literatures of India’ with a one day symposium on ‘The Many Voices of Indian Literature’. 

Regal splendour

Place: JODHPUR

Stand almost anywhere in Jodhpur, and the most impressive sight is likely to be the Mehrangarh Fort. Perched at a height atop a hill, this historic fort is the stuff of history and legend. As you enter you cannot but be thrilled and struck by the sheer stolidity of the walls, the delicacy of the palace carvings, the complexity in architecture – usual notions of number of storeys do not exist here, and wealth that once awed whoever came. Well, awed we still are.

A former stronghold of the Marwar dynasties, this about 550-year old fort is today one of the most impressive forts in India - as much for its size and architecture as its upkeep. The fort, build by one of Jodhpur’s most influential leaders, Rao Jodha (1438-89) of the Rathore clan, who also founded the city named after him, though today a lot of what stands in the fort was built during the time of Jaswant Singh and Ajit Singh about two centuries later. Over centuries, as invaders and allies broke through the massive walls, at places over 20 feet thick, but the fort structure has endured and today attracts visitors from far and near.

Note the sheer fall of some of
the palaces inside the fort.
Note too the details in carving!

Be prepared to get tired as you explore the extensive fort, which has many mahals and open courtyards and grounds and gardens. the architecture is a mix of styles and periods, and like many forts of the region, the layout is haphazard - intentionally so, for no one looking from outside can guess the what lies next to a wall or building. As Marwar was for along aligned to the Mughals, there are Mughal influences in the fort architecture and aesthetics too. The buildings often rise steeply next to cliffs, and have exquisite carving and detailing on them, leaving to ponder just how challenging it must have been for the workers. There are multiple buildings, though the usual tourist path is well marked and covers the main ones.

Long corridors are fronted by elaborate jharokhas as palaces mesh
into each other in a seamless complex

Today the Mehrangarh Trust takes care of the fort, making it one the best kept forts in the country, an example for heritage conservationists. headed by the current head of the erstwhile royal family, the conservation of this fort has earned it global kudos.

The palaces today serve as museum rooms. There are many artifacts kept preserved from the past, including palanquins or howdahs - which is first gallery you see, and it is stunning to see these. You look at them and wonder how difficult transporting them would have been, especially in the uneven terrain, though they have been a relief in the summer sun. They look small and uncomfortable to be seated in, though the work on them is lovely.

Elaborate palace interiors, complete with gilt coverings and
stained glass windows combine with traditional designs

The interiors are rich and indicate past splendour. There are separate areas for weapons, scrolls, manuscripts, utensils, carpets, brocades, and much more. A unique collection is of children's cradles, kept in a narrow room. There is wall for ceremonial turbans too.  There is a fairly extensive painting gallery, largely dating to later centuries and in the Rajput style of painting. Some rooms have been preserved as they were eg a bedroom etc.

The fort also offers spectacular views of the city, and if look around, you will see why the city is called ‘blue city’. Exploring the fort is great fun, especially understanding how people lived and worked and rested in this sealed complex.

The beautiful Chokelao Bagh 

There is an ambitious garden called Chokelao Bagh, which provides a green oasis within the fort. Towards the back of the fort are water reservoirs. Visit them just to see the stupendous amount of planning required to bring the water and keep it clean. On the way are gates and mazes that you will just have to step into.

The fort is fairly clean, there are enough staff, there are refreshment shops at upper levels too - very thoughtful so you don’t have to huff and puff back and forth. Cameras are at a fee, and gift shop has some lovely stuff, even if they are a tad expensive.

Lights at the zenana courtyard. At night the fort
transforms into a simmering ship in a sea of darkness

Possibly the most sensible time to visit is winter, but the fort also has a temple that is visited by thousands, largely locals, and also has annual fairs, when it comes to life. Another great time to visit is during the Jodhpur Riff, when the festival remains up all night, swinging to the beats of musicians far and near.

Grand past, future uncertain

All set to set off from Ghum station, the highest in India. 

Place: GHUM

One of the most iconic symbols of Indian railways, the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway may be a World Heritage project, local politics has ensured that has come to at its worst ever.

The train / route has played such an important role in popular culture, especially at a time when Bengal and Calcutta were the centre of Indian elite. For well over a century, it has delighted generations of tourists as entire families would take the train to the matchingly beautiful destination of Darjeeling.

When it was listed by UNESCO in 1999, it became only the second railway to get that honour, though it has since been joined by two more routes in India alone.

The track passes through picturesque little towns, and from almost
within touching distance of houses! 

The 86-km route was commissioned in 1881, and has since been modified a number of times, usually to better align to the hill gradients, as it rises from 100 m above sea  level to 2,200 through a spectacularly beautiful countryside - starting with verdant forests of Sukna, meandering through low hills at first and then increasingly higher mountain towns. The towns it passes are lovely as well, with house balconies often adorned with flowers growing in polythene bags! The tea gardens, uniformly arranged, with narrow passages and colourful tea plucking ladies, add their own charm.

The steam engines chug along for the better part of the journey along Hill Cart Road, which connects Shiliguri to Darjeeling. As a child, my mother, who grew up in the tea estates of the region, remembers running along the train, and getting on and off at will, so slowly did it move in parts. The route is steep, and in parts the train goes through loops, of which the Batasia is most famous. There are even parts where it reverses to move forward. For many parts, it almost seems to pass through people's houses, and travelling on it can give the passenger a first look at hill homes of the region, up close.

Due to damages to the rail track, the Darjeeling
Himalayan railway currently operates only from
Kurseong to Darjeeling

There are many small stations, though Kurseong is the major halting station. Quaint names such as Ghum and Sonada are like dream towns, where the townspeople, used to stares from passengers, go about their lives without noticing the train much.

Today the Gorkhaland dispute has meant that most of the route is in disarray. The train only runs from Kurseong to Darjeeling as unrepaired tracks means the route upto Kurseong is no longer operational. The carriages require upkeep, and there are comparatively few tourists as people are unwilling to come to a politically disturbed area. However it continues to draw some tourists and railway enthusiasts. And despite the hard times, hardly any visitor goes away without leaving a part of his heart behind to this Himalayan heritage. 

Period piece

Glenary's reputation continues to attract visitors

Place: DARJEELING


Glenary's in Darjeeling is definitely among the places where time has stood still. Here the days of the Raj continue to hold sway as the entire ambience of this restaurant is geared towards maintaining it.

The main eatery still has items like meat pie on the menu. Try the cakes and pastries on offer. The best - look out of the window to get a great view of the Himalayas.

There is even a bar, The Buzz, on the floor below, though today it plays more local music than anything else. Along with the rest of this once glittering city, this restaurant has been in decline since the separatist Gorkhaland movement has affected the region.

May its halycon days return soon, for it is too precious too be permanently lost. 

Nostagia

Place: KOLKATA

The palaces of old Kolkata are one of the sadder stories of our times. Once grand and opulent, many of them are a state of ruin as often there has been a decline in family fortunes and no one, including the state is bothered.

I feel there should a trust, with or without the support of the state, that can take care of these really magnificent buildings. Part of our recent heritage, any part of them lost is a slice of history that is gone forever.

These palaces are largely in north Kolkata, in the older part of the city, built largely during British times. There are still some families that have managed to maintain them, but most seem to be in terminal decline. For a state that is looking for funds, this could easily turn into a huge heritage complex if someone did take the initiative.

This pic is taken in the evening from a cruise ship on the Hugli.