Style statement

An umbrella shop on Market Road behind Broadway in Kochi

Place: KOCHI

If it is Kochi, can umbrellas be far behind. As the sudden change from sweltering heat of summer gives way to lashing rains, the city suddenly changes attire as the umbrella becomes the most visible part of most scurrying denizens as the rush along roads trying to take shelter if the downpour is too heavy, or just continuing their work if it is a gentler drizzle.

On my first visit to Kochi during the monsoon, I was struck by the sheer range of umbrellas on offer. The variety in shape, while folded of course, size, colour and design is dazzling.

Did you buy umbrellas from John's while at the airport? 

Many shops, who at other times of the year have other wares fronting their stores, now have umbrellas. Of course, there are exclusive umbrella shops as well. They are at every major market and neighbourhood store. There was even an umbrella shop at the airport! Surprisingly it is at Departure, whereas I would have thought Arrival would have made more sense! Or is it a magnet substitute? If you are not picky, they cost about the same too!

Umbrella makers are quite important in Kerala, and have sizable revenues apparently. If they can double film financiers, which some leading ones are supposed to be, then surely it is a lucrative business. Well sales are huge, and almost everyone on the street carries an umbrella during the monsoon, which begins in June and can last till August here.

Of course there were traditional umbrellas and palm leaves, but these are rare sightings now. Nor are the dominant-for-decades black umbrellas as visible. Today, synthetic umbrellas, locally made or from China, come in fuchsia, magenta, crimson, rose-pink, pearl, mauve... and all other colours in between! Given that most are also patterned, the mix of hues just gets richer, even if they do not agree with your aesthetic.

But do get one while in Kochi during the monsoon, its part of the uniform! 

First drops

Place: KOCHI

By the Marine Drive in Kochi

Kochi is one of the first places in India to welcome the south west monsoon. As the rest of the country eagerly awaits an end to the cruel heat of white hot summer, Kerala is where most eyes turn to for an indication of when they can hope too.

This year, the monsoon was late by a few days, and that is already too long a wait for many. Here as the dense monsoon clouds hang over the sea, it is sobering to realise just how important the rains are to the country, and just how the entire incomes of entire villages rest on the monsoon being normal. Even though climate change over time is inevitable, I just hope human action does not unduly hasten it.

The beauty of the dark clouds is something else to behold. Even when the rains are unrelenting and countinuous, Indians dependent on them rarely complain. For they know a healthy monsoon ensures their well being through the year.