Connecting over coffee

Place: CHIKMAGALUR

A coffee picker earns a rupee and a half per hour for his or her labour. At eight hours a day, it would still not be a whole number of even my unsubstantial salary. Yet I offered to do time at the Thirthagundi estate, one of the hundreds of coffee estates in the breathtaking Malnad region of Karnataka.

The coffee bean acquires a maroon shade as it ripens

A recent weekend trip to the Café Coffee Day (CCD)-owned plantation proved to be an eye opener in more ways than one. The 5 Senses Coffee Trail, a crash course in coffee appreciation—from its history to brewing it—was an educative and exhilarating experience, especially as the delightful Chikkamagaluru, or Chikmagalur weather complimented the stay. Incidentally, the town is on the periphery of the holiday map for the area, and CCD last year inaugurated what is arguably the resort destination in Karnataka, The Serai. But more on that elsewhere.

Coffee in India usually grows in spectacularly beautiful countrysides

Coffee is said to have originated in Ethiopia in the ninth century when a Sufi monk discovered goats that consumed coffee cherries were more energetic than those that did not, says Dr Prakash Kenjige, Head, Research and Development, CCD. Amazing story, don't know how true.

Its fame and reputation spread and it remained a closely guarded secret of the Arab world till expanded trade and smuggling spread it to the rest of the world in the centuries where seafaring mercantilism was at its peak in those times.

How much coffee will grow on
this one?

In India, it is said that another Sufi saint, Baba Budan smuggled seven beans in his belly button and planted them in Chikmagalur in the 17th century, and the district to date remains the centre of coffee plantations in the country. Baba Budan is still revered in the area for his service, only violent competing claims by some Hindus and Muslims have led to a ban on any visits to his shrine—a Babri Masjid-like situation in south India.

Harvesting is fun!

Coffee grows best in cool tropical climates. In India, south Karnataka and Kerala produced the bulk of India’s 2,93,000 tonnes the production for last year.

Two major varieties are grown, Arabica and Robusta, though the former has greater value for exports. There are about 800 varieties in all though. And there are four crucial individuals in the journey from the plantation to your cup at a nearby cafe—the planter, roaster, blender and brewmaster. We would meet them all, we discovered.

Coffee, before the cup

Coffee drying at the plantation. The colour difference is according to how strong the coffee needs to be

The coffee plant requires about a year to grow from the seed, planted in nurseries. The saplings are then transferred in plantations, on average 1.8 hectares in India. The flowering season is in February, and the fruit takes about nine months to mature. While CCD, India’s largest owner of estate area with about 8,000 acres, grows its own coffee, it also buys from other plantations, says Dr Kenjige.

Coffee plantations are not just about coffee, we soon discovered. The plantations are dominated by tapering silver oaks and arecanut trees, both which are pruned by specialists who, to do that, do not climb each tree individually, but swing from one tree to another. Just watching them to do at heights of about 15 to 20 feet makes one dizzy. The forests abound in orchids, growing high in the hills. We did not just stop to watch lush green peppers, but bit into them immediately. Hot, but oh so fresh.

The ripe red coffee cherries are best for picking—note that unlike tea, which comes from leaves—coffee comes from fruit, making processing that much more difficult, points out the coffee lobby, combating the much greater popularity of tea in India. The cherry has few takers, as it is sweet in an unpleasant way. Apart from the civet of course, whose droppings make for the most expensive coffee in the world, at about $10,000 for a mere cuppa! Madonna never travels without it, one is told!

Inside the CCD factory

After harvesting, the coffee berries are transported immediately and the beans extracted either by wet (pulping) or dry (sun drying) methods. When the moisture content is about 11.5%—coffee experts know that by tasting, they are sent to the blender. Though CCD itself uses just one blend across its cafes, it makes 28 blends, many for sale outside the company.

Next came the roasting machines—three storey high machines that purred and whizzed and hissed almost unceasingly. And there’s a new one in the company. From there is was just a short step to packing, which involves special six-layered packs that let the heat escape but not the aroma, so that when you open the packet, you still smell fresh coffee. Don’t ask me how.

Ok, our efforts at brewing may not
pass your exacting standards,
but we were pretty proud

Felix Daniel Mathew, Manager, F&B, took us through the intricacies of brewing. We were meant to master the skill of not just making the perfect coffee, but also those beautiful hearts and flowers that top the cups!

We may not have got that right, but between learning the right fruit to pick to the right grinding proportions, a cup of coffee no longer remained just that. It is a work of art!

Tranquility

Place: CHIKMAGALUR

A view the Serai resort in Karnataka's Chikmagalur district.

The Serai consists of a number of individual villas and overlooks the ghats. It's a spectacular site in the middle of the coffee growing region. Water is an important facet in this Cafe Coffee Day owned resort, and a central channel flows right through.

This is an early morning shot over the central pool.  

Coffee country

Wild, tropical, green, a coffee plantation is a great
place to relax in

Place: CHIKMAGALUR

Deep inside a coffee plantation.

Comparisons with tea are inevitable. So well, unlike the perfectly manicured tea estates, coffee plantations are perfectly wild, as you can see. Coffee bushes are low, but they are usually set among high trees, including pepper, sliver fir and arecanut. The resultant combination is a wonderful mix of tall trees and creepers, beautiful shiny leaves and red brown coffee berries.

This photo is taken around noon time. Different times of the day have their play of light and shade. Do not be on a tight schedule when visiting!

Room with a view

If you think this is blue, step towards the ocean

Place: NUSA DUA

That's the view I had from my room at The Laguna, Bali.

This was during a very short visit - any visit to Bali feels short, but this truly was a quick four day thing. This is of course water at the pool.

To see the real stuff, one had to go to the hotel beach, where a spectacularly beautiful blue sea laps your feet. And stretches much beyond you can see - well Australia is on the other, and not that far! 

Bridging gaps

Place: BALLY

A view of the bridges at Bally, West Bengal as they cross the Hugli.

The Vivekananda Setu and Nivedita Setu over the Hugli in West Bengal

Built between 1926 and 1932, well before the Howrah Bridge, the older rounded top bridge was once the main bridge linking south Bengal to its west.  The famous Dakshineshwar Temple is very close by.

Today called the Vivekananda Setu, it was earlier called Willingdon Bridge. Today a companion bridge, Nivedita Setu has been built, and together they carry road and rail links.

This was taken from a cruise on a ferry along the Hugli. This is an evening pic, and the sun is already setting. The water was calm, and the breeze delightful.

Floral interpretation

Place: KOLKATA

At the lobby of ITC Sonar Bangla.

Alpanas with rice paste are a common tradition in West Bengal. Here a contemporary twist as it is done with flowers. The diyas just heighten the impact on  grey-black granite floor.

This shot is taken in the evening. 

Unity of mind

The Belur Math as seen from the river Hugli. 

Place: BELUR

A view of Belur Math, the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math. Founded by Swami Vivekananda, it is today a huge attraction for local people, who throng here daily in large numbers.

The Belur complex began in 1897, when Swami Vivekananda started work here. The main temple is The Ramakrishna temple, which resembles a temple, a mosque, a church if seen from different positions.

This photo is taken from a river cruise ship on the Hugli, just as the evening aarti is concluding. 

Nostagia

Place: KOLKATA

The palaces of old Kolkata are one of the sadder stories of our times. Once grand and opulent, many of them are a state of ruin as often there has been a decline in family fortunes and no one, including the state is bothered.

I feel there should a trust, with or without the support of the state, that can take care of these really magnificent buildings. Part of our recent heritage, any part of them lost is a slice of history that is gone forever.

These palaces are largely in north Kolkata, in the older part of the city, built largely during British times. There are still some families that have managed to maintain them, but most seem to be in terminal decline. For a state that is looking for funds, this could easily turn into a huge heritage complex if someone did take the initiative.

This pic is taken in the evening from a cruise ship on the Hugli. 

Whiteworld

Place: IN THE SKIES

White sand? foaming sea? apocalptic film? what could this be?

A shot of the clouds taken from a flight around midday. It was an unreal experience for me to pass over such a white field interspersed with with what seemed to whale humps. All clouds, as I was told. 

A drop of heaven

Place: BHIMTAL

A visit to Bhimtal in May 2009 was wonderful weekend break. Highly recommended.

As is apparent, Bhimtal is sublime. You can just sit  in the midst of its tranquil shores, for the most part and enjoy sunrise, sunset and the myriad moods the day has on offer

It is situated in the 'lake district' of India, about 22 kilometres from Nainital. Less crowded that Nainital, it still retains an old world charm. The lake is circled by roads on all sides, and a leisurely walk around, with stops to take in the freshness of the hills and forests, the four odd shops where there is nothing touristy to buy, a little temple, an island to visit, the ducks swimming in a line to admire, the beautiful trees....

Jewel in lake country

Place: BHIMTAL

Verdant mountains. Lush valleys. Azure lake. Perfect weather. Home-like digs. Amazing food. Country music. Nymphs to sing to you…

Okay, the last wasn’t true, but is as close to paradise as you will get. And surprisingly, it was nowhere exotic or faraway, but just Bhimtal, a few hours drive northeast of Delhi. Well, if the name doesn’t ring a bell straightway, it is actually a less glamorous cousin of the Queen of the Hills, Nainital. The setting is uncannily similar — the mountains are majestic, the valleys green and enticing, the lake in the middle shimmering in the golden glow of the afternoon sun.

What price for sights like these?

But that’s where the similarities end. For while Nainital teems with people, Bhimtal is comparatively silent — in fact, an evening walk is not the done thing at all, is the quick realisation after one such stroll around the lake!

But there is lots to be done. You can walk about, laze around, fish, rediscover secluded walks and even more secluded lakes, or hike up to the top of a hill and discover the breathtakingly beautiful view of the next valley. I stayed at Fisherman’s Lodge, towards the southern end of the lake, and it is a perfect choice for those visiting this lake-town. “This is a house, and anyone staying at my house is a friend of mine,” says Bunty Bakshi, a Delhi-based businessman who runs the place along with his wife. He did not choose the place on a whim. He grew up in Bhimtal, at a time when, he says, “there was hardly anyone here and as boys we could go swim about in the lakes nude as there was no one to see us!”

Relaxing by the lake in one's balcony, it seemed like paradise on earth

Though the Lodge has 12 rooms, Grewal says having up to six rooms full is ideal as he can really take care of his guests. The attention to detail at the Lodge can put quite a few five-star establishments in the country to shame — from the architecture to the aesthetics, it is a blend of beauty in pastel shades lit be tee lights. And though Bhimtal is no longer as isolated, he still takes his guests fishing, pampers them scrumptious food, and even sings to regale his guests. And unsurprisingly, he is full of tales, past and present, at the evening barbeques. There’s also a portico overlooking the lake, almost jutting into it. Sitting there to watch this idyllic lake in its changing hues can fill your day.

Fish motifs and designs are aesthetically woven in

The lake has a small jetty with a few sail boats. You can lazily circumvent a tiny island on which an aquarium is being built. For even a fan of the ongoing IPLs, following the television is not going to be easy.

The approach to the lake is either from the south or the northwest. But the focal point is the northeast, where there is a small dam built during colonial era and a minuscule market surrounding it. Though there is a souvenir shop, don’t really expect anything much.

Bhimtal, which gets its name from the legendary hero of the Mahabharata, looks set to embrace the future. A little away from the lake, a little industrial zone is being built, and quick excursions also reveal a comparatively large number of houses being built. Time to get one if you are planning a longer stay?

Flowerworld

Place: DELHI

This is the annual flower show at the Garden of Five Senses, organised by Delhi Tourism. It used to be earlier held at the Talkatora Gardens, but has since shifted. This is in 2009, one of the first years at the new venue.

This is a flower show rather than a garden show, so basically there are a lot of potted plants. Lots of spring flowers multihued, in many shapes and sizes, make this a great visit for the average visitor. For a flower expert, not so much!

For more pics click here 

Auto pilot

We shall be Mercs soon! The CKD factory at Chakan near Pune

Place: CHAKAN 

A view of the Mercedes assembly line at its Chakan CKD plant near Pune.

It was amazing to see the extent of precision and detailing in the cars. Especially as this was just a factory where the parts are assembled, they are not manufactured here. Sales in India do not still justify a manufacturing facility.

It took us hours to see a various car parts from one assembly to another in as each little part was added. There was testing too, and it felt a bit like the movies to see these fancy getting tested. The 100 acre plant was one the fastest automotive greenfield projects completed in India, and Mercedes had in on priority as it was getting overtaken by competitors in the Indian luxury car space. Well, whether they catch up or not, this is a new benchmark for Indian auto factories. 

Test drive

A Nano on a test drive ahead of its launch

Place: PUNE

Early bird. An early Nano on a test drive on the roads of Pune. There was such enormous curiosity about the car then, and it was thrilling to see it up close. The flimsiness was apparent even then, right?

As Tata's gift to the lower middle classes, it alternately had the dream of making every Indian who earned even a little a car owner and the nightmare of Indian roads getting clogged by these little beetles. Well, neither happened, or rather the clogging of cities had other reasons, and the dream of the lower MC buying cars remains unfulfilled as not many bought into the dream.

Yes, Ratan Tata bemoaned the missed opportunity, but then selling a substandard product had not prevented the group from selling well before!