Whiteworld

Snow at Oerlikon, Zurich

Place: ZURICH

Snow at Zurich. This is behind the Swisshotel in Oerlikon.

We had visited in November, when it was already getting pretty cold. However we hadn't got snow the day we landed, and I had been a little disappointed. However, it snowed the day we left, and the city was transformed into something magical. 

Bali on a platter

Early morning by the beach at Nusa Dua

Place: BALI

Look out for the seafood. Smell the durian (you can’t miss it even if you try, as discovered later). Don’t miss the suckling pig (well, I for one had full intentions of doing exactly that). But of course, going to the land of the satays and nasi gorengs meant a lot of wishers were going to have vicarious advice. Well before the itinerary for the trip to Bali had been finalised, food was already high on the priority list.

For an Indian, a trip to Bali has an added attraction — spotting the Indian connection. Bali is full of temples of Wisnu (yes, that’s how Vishnu is spelt there) and tales of Ramayana. There’s Gayatri mantra as caller tunes. Delve deeper and you realise that just the names have remained — Hinduism here has taken forms that few from the subcontinent will recognise. Including its food.

A little deviation to the land that provides the food. Not to forget the sea, which contribute as much. Think of a large seaside mountainous natural park of lush tropical beauty and an entertainment resort put together. Add miles of colourful shops, and ubiquitous tourists. Sprinkle with raindrops and generally perfect weather. You conjured up Bali, ‘island of the gods’.

People of all shapes and sizes, from all corners of the world, look far more relaxed than they do at home. Straw hats waving, they are at the golden beaches and on idyllic cruises, climbing for views of rice terraces and hopefully active volcanoes, sipping Balinese coffee amidst frenzied shopping in bargain and luxury markets, even canyoning, parasailing, mangrove trekking… And like me, cooking! Yes, many tourists do that as well, given the extent of fresh raw food, all waiting for the cooked!!

We stayed at The Laguna Resort and Spa, part of what is probably the Vegas of Bali — Nusa Dua, a peninsula nestled in the south- east corner of the island. It is paradisical in its structured beauty of the multi-million dollar resorts, though not exactly authentic Bali as it was created on UN recommendation in the 1970s, to concentrate tourism in an area. We hadn’t reached in the best of tempers — our flight from India was delayed by three hours, had dinner shoved at us at 5 am-IST and body clock time, ran from arrival to departure at Bangkok’s swanky Suvarnabhumi Airport (the changeover destination, there are no direct flights to Bali from India yet) and our baggage failed to join us!. After some vigorous pidgin English-Bahasa explanations and gesticulating — it was agreed that we would let the baggage arrive before further negotiation.

Vegetable vendors at Bandung market in Denpasar, Bali

Shop to cook 
Well, the next morning, baggage retrieved in a late night sojourn to the airport, under the able guidance of Executive Chef, I Made Putra, we sallied forth to cook. Only to discover we had to buy the ingredients as everything had to be fresh, and we had to buy it.

Off we went to the Badung market, in capital Denpasar. We emerged an hour later — laden with vegetables and spices — some familiar, others exotic — including cassava, candle nuts — again, beware of the smell, galangal roots, shrimp paste and a lot of advice from the shopkeepers and other buyers… The seafood market could be smelt a considerable distance away — fish of many hues overshadowed by crustaceans, squids, octopuses, crabs, shrimps, lobsters, and many other unidentified creatures, some still alive. Seeing the Balinese go about their regular life, in which religion and culture are intertwined was worth wading through the slime!

Back to 5-star environs, washed, we set about putting things in order, right by the seaside! Like most of the region, the accent is on freshness, though perhaps Balinese cuisine uses more spices than all of the rest of south -east Asia. Not just is the use of galangal and lemon grass distinctive, combinations of cinnamon, coriander, shallons, kaffir lime, nutmeg, cardamom and turmeric flavour the recipes too. Most vegetables and fruits are tropical sized, ie huge, creating a novelty factor right from the time you see them. While regular food is rice with vegetables and seafood, festive fare is, well, indeed festive and elaborate. Warung, or local food stalls are everywhere, and despite apprehensions of hygiene, are usually fresh as there is no local provision or concept of storing food!

The condiments are ready to get into the fire

We started with sate lilit ikan, or Balinese minced fish satay with sweet soya and chili. In the name of cooking, all ingredients (see box, and pictures) were mixed together and grilled. Quick, healthy and scrumptious. After applauding ourselves, we moved to the ikan bumbu kare, stewed butter fish curry with steamed rice and vegetables. Just a little more elaborate, this involved creating a basic paste called bumbu wangen — a combination of about 10 ingredients grounded with a lot of fresh ingredients. We cut the beautiful bass we had just bought, in cubes. Cooking time was minimal, and again the result was lip smacking.

The dessert, called kolak, simmered fruits in palm sugar liquid, was less to our taste. Exhausted by our efforts, we voted to let others do the cooking for the rest of the trip. The cuisine justified its reputation, and though MacD beckoned with its huge “welcome home” billboards, we stuck to gado gado, steamed vegetables, all pale coloured usually, lawar, a sauce of minced vegetables, meats and spices, sambal, hot chilli paste, sometimes with shrimp on it and a lot of seafood, some of which took getting used to.

There are a lot for vegetarians in Bali, and for those so inclined, try exotic stuff such as nangka, young jackfruit or pakis, fern tips. Fruits abound, including finger bananas, mangosteens and durians. While you can ask your food to be tidak pedas, or not spicy, if you are the average spice-loving Indian, go for the real thing. You won’t regret it.

Returning the garden to the city

The front facade of ITC Gardenia

Place: BENGALURU

It’s an effort to give the garden back to the Garden City. That’s the philosophy that ITC’s buzzworthy hotel in Bangalore, Gardenia, is run by. Small by the standards of some humungous hotels being built today, the 292-room Gardenia is on its way to make history as it is likely to become India’s first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Platinum hotel. It has already sent in its final submission to the Washington DC-based green building rating agency.

“An ‘eco responsible’ ethos is an inherent part of our system and in creating the ITC Royal Gardenia, the challenge was to see how luxury and responsibility could be in harmony together,” says Nakul Anand, Chief Executive, ITC Hotels Division. And the two are married. Your room has no obvious reminder to be eco-friendly, the processes are built in. “Which is why it took four instead of the planned two years to make the hotel,” reveals a member of the staff.

ITC has already achieved LEED certification for some of its earlier structures, including the Green Centre in Gurgaon and its hotel in Kolkata, Sonar Bangla, “which is the first green hotel that has been registered for CDM benefits,” says YC Deveshwar, Chairman ITC.

The vertical gardens at the hotel may have been a
bit forced due the size of the plot, the idea of the
gardens going vertical are a great draw

As eco-tourism is on the rise, in what could possibly be the norm for the future, right from the conception, extreme care has been taken to ensure eco-friendliness at the hotel, informs Vidya Prakash, Project Manager. The four-acre land, at a prime location in Bangalore, earlier had ITC staff quarters, a lush green space. While 48 trees were relocated, two trees came in for special attention. An old pipal tree was moved and another and a larger tree that could not be moved was incorporated into the design. When I visited during the final stages of construction, the tree had a protective covering. The original topsoil of the land was set aside and reused! 50% of the site area has been restored.

Water management at the hotel is an important component. While the existing subsoil water was used during construction, rainwater harvesting has been integral to the project. Water used in the basins is filtered, purified and recycled several times. There is 100% reduction of potable water usage for landscaping by using treated waste water and efficient irrigation systems. So water surplus is the hotel that it can provide its neighbour across the road, the Bangalore Club, with surplus water. Gardenia uses solar energy generated by six parabolic discs for all outdoor lighting, steam generation and hot water system. All cars are to be parked in the basement, avoiding the heat island effect. All of the wood used in the hotel has been sourced from the forests certified by the Forest Standing Council (FSC), meaning the wood is from forests specially grown for this purpose.

The naturally ventilated lobby - it has no AC, but the tunnel like
structure of the hotel keeps it permanently cool  

The use of natural light is maximised, with 79% of the spaces having a minimum daylight factor of 2%. CFL bulbs are used for lighting throughout the hotel while 90% of the building occupants are provided with individual lighting controls and 50% of the building occupants provided with thermal system controllability. Yes, those small touch screens provided in your rooms are not to be ignored. I did the first day, only to later figure out how fascinating they were in kind of controls they provided.

The green experience starts right from the moment you enter—there is no door to the entrance lobby. It is cold, and you almost want to request someone to turn down the AC, only to realise that there is no AC here. The wind funnel created by the capital H shape of the building keeps it cool. The most striking feature—the lobby has four huge vertical gardens—green panels of syngoniums and philodendrons. To save space, they are now on walls, in more than one location in the hotel. Prepared by Singapore-based RP Jickky of Tropical Environment, these are on a wall 90mm thick and are drip irrigated every other day for 15-20 minutes.

Gardenia does not compromise on luxury on any count. The restaurants, the spa, the pavilions all give the same experience as any other luxury hotel. Only you can indulge here, feeling comfortable that despite the luxurious stay, your carbon footprint is mininal.

Green rooms

ITC Gardenia rooms have many green practices built in. Discover:
* Double insulated windows reduce noise and heat, leading to less use of ACs.
* Efficient plumbing fictures and water limiters reduce water use
* The locks are RFID (radio frequency indicator) enabled.
* The JVD Minibar does not use CFC to cool.
* A multifunctional tool, InnCom can be used as a telephone, connect MPs players, regulate all electrical controls.
* Toiletries are eco-friendly.
* The bathrobes are made of organic cotton.

Trambus

The trams, left, are a major draw for tourists, though most 
transportation in the city is through buses - more double decker 
than single floor and of course the metro

Place: HONGKONG

A look at Kolkata's trams and you have to weep. Given that they are the only extant ones in India, Indian mind automatically associates the word tram with adjectives such as decrepit, decaying, old... But the British left the same legacy for another eastern city, Hongkong. And the trams of Hongkong are still pristine, and a pride of the city.

Over a hundred years old, they are still widely used on Hongkong island, and are not just a tourist attraction, though of course tourists love them. The lines are limited, though there has been an extension to Happy Valley. The government has constantly seen it fit to update the services and they are today a modern transport system, even if some on purpose retain an old world look

Gaily painted today with all kinds of advertising labels, they are really wonderful advertisments for the city's vibrancy. 

Wonder city

Looking west on Gloucester Road along the waterfront 

Place: HONGKONG

Every time I visit Hongkong, I am most impressed by the easy mobility of the city. It has an excellent public transport system and commuting is really easy. Of course it helps that civic order is high, despite dense population, low land area, difficult weather, high consumption, it just manages fine. Very creditable.

Another really praiseworthy part is the attention to aesthetics. Whether it is signages or bus exteriors, roads, lamps, pavements, metro stations, you can see the effort to go beyond the functional. And that adds to the experience of visiting and living in the city.

This photo is taken in evening, along a walking tour. 

Stair, well

It's not as rickety as it looks! 

Place: MUMBAI

Even as staircases go out of fashion, here is a stairwell that I had to stop and admire the first time I saw it. At the Royal Bombay Yacht Club, where I was fortunate to stay a few times. Each time I have paid homage to this relic of bygone era, but so grand and aesthetic. Semi circular-ish in shape, it's sides are adorned with lovely stained glass windows and today as flower pots as additional adornments.

It is made of wood, and has a single elevator going up four floors. It has an operator at all times, and is rather slow compared to its modern counterparts. But once inside, it is oh so magical. Visit it, do next time you are at the Gateway. 

Fall of the maharaja

A row of Air India planes. Note that years after the merger, 
planes are still to be repainted

Place: AIRPORT

Byword for corruption or a grand airline? Your opinion will depend on whether you are over 50 or not. For if you are, you have seen the days when Air India was one of the best airlines in the world, at a time when Pan am ruled and no one had heard of Singapore Airlines.

Over the years, the decline of Air India has been a joke. Its the airline Indians prefer least to fly. From a time when it had the entire share of air market in India to now, it is now the fourth in passenger traffic share, after Jet, Indigo and Spicejet. For a long time, even Kingfisher had greater share. AI also has a loss of over Rs 60,000 crore. The government in April 2012 announced a Rs 30,000 crore 'package' for AI, a figure that could ensure basic education or healthcare for all Indians?  AI in recent years has lurched from crisis to collapse. While this is not the first case of a state running its airline badly, Lufthansa is a case in point. There is no doubt AI has also been run criminally, and maybe someday, in a more accountability led India, its past will be accounted for.

Unlike most erstwhile maharajas the Air India
maharaja was helpful, polite, friendly and service oriented

But if we leave its murky present and look at its glory days, oh what a golden past it had. Founded by JRD Tata as Tata Airlinesm in 1932, it became Air India in 1946, when it became a public limited company. It started flying to London in 1948, via Cairo and Geneva. In 1953, the government acquired majority stake and next year started services to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Singapore.

AI got its first jet in 1960, and by 1962, was the world's first all jet airline. From 1971, it positioned itself as 'Palace in the sky', and its service standards were still excellent. The next three decades saw a continuation of its traditions as new planes got added, but a slow decline had set in.

The previous decade has been terrible for the airline. Its reputation is in tatters, and just about no one thinks the Rs 30,000 crore will help. For the sake of nostalgia, let's hope some of the glory returns. 

Game changer

Place: DELHI

A Maruti convertible? That was the first I had ever seen. Unfortunately this one seemed like it was on its way to the scrapyard.

Today the Maruti Suzuki 800 is being phased out, but for well over a decade, it was India's biggest selling car.

It opened up new dreams for middle class Indians, and I still remember when the first cars came in the 1984, in sky blue, maroon, canary yellow etc. A basic car, nevertheless it was almost heaven sent for those tired of the earlier Ambys and Fiats.

It has played a huge role in reshaping modern India, and is still remembered fondly by many. 

Tart time

Place: MACAU

Most of those who make a list for their trip to Macau put just one thing to eat - egg tart. Macanese cuisine is a mix of local and European influences, especially of former imperial power, Portugal. The egg tart, a derivative of the Portuguese pastel de nata, has nevertheless become famous as a delicacy from the orient, especially Macau, Hongkong etc.

The egg tart, basically a roundish pastry shell filled by egg custard and baked, comes in different varieties. 

In Macau, they are available almost everywhere, even in supermarkets. Favourites for the egg tart are Margaret's Cafe, tucked away in the bylanes of old Macau, and Lord Stow's Bakery, situated in the southern island of Coloanne. The owners of the incidentally are former spouses, and the taste is slightly different, though there is little agreement on which is better. Try both to decide. 

Waiting in anticipation

Place: JAIPUR

At the 2010 edition of the Jaipur Literature Festival.

This was the year it really began bursting at its seams as it became an extended outpost of the Delhi party scene. Creditably, there are some literature fans who manage to make the festival worth its while, along with the writers and organisers of course. Highlights that year included Hanif Qureishi, Alexander MacQueen, Amit Chaudhari

I love my India

India Gate is lit for a Republic Day celebration 

Place: DELHI

Still one of the most evocative and emotive symbols of India, India Gate is today a symbol of hope for many, a rallying point for those wishing to make their voice heard.

Ironically, built in 1931 not only by India's former colonial masters, and to commemorate the loss of lives of India soldiers in foreign wars of the First World War, it had little to do with India's common folk. For the British at that time had not even imagined they would be out of India the next decade, as they went about building a fancy new capital for themselves.

It has since been appropriated in modern India's nation building fabric completely. Annual parades to the country's honour are held with it as a focus, and the nation's top military and political leadership pay regular homage to it.

For me, and for thousands of Delhiites, it has also been a favourite evening hangout place. I lived about a kilometre away for a considerable part of my life, and remember the countless number of times we went to it for just a stroll topped by an ice cream without caring about its legacy.

Ambitiously designed, it is today a focal point for tourism to the city. The statue of King George VI was removed after independence, and instead an eternal tributary fire is lit for the Indian soldier.