PHOTOESSAY: Kolkata's water worlds

Place: KOLKATA

I was fortunate to recently have been part of a cruise up the river Hugli - from the historic Outram Ghat to Dakshineshwar. It was organised by Gateway Hotel, a new Taj property in the city.

Kolkata, largely built under British rule, was, as every city before the advent of motorised transport, a river facing city. Today, people have turned their backs on the river, but closer examination reveals signs of a time the city still faced the river - its lifeline. An occasional ruined palace facade, the Howrah station, the numerous manors, the numerous ferries and of course the omnipresent ghats, all indicate how the river was once the main road.

What was perhaps even more fortuitous was a visit to the other end of the city - to its wetlands. The wetlands have acted as a natural sponge and sewage cleanser ever since the city has been built. Signs of its existence are seen in ponds increasingly towards the eastern boundaries of the city, though today the EM Bypass effectively acts as a dam. These wetlands, protected under the Ramsar Convention after a long battle, are still not out of the woods. Today mainly used for local fishing, they deserve recognition also for their sheer resplendent beauty, as we discovered in a brief dawn trip.

Here are a few glimpses from the trip: (Click for larger views)

The historic Outram Ghat - once a crucial gateway to the city. There is still a dilapitated customs office here. 

First glimpse of the Hugli

That's our cruiser - though to reach it, we had to take another boat

The river is not as densely packed with traffic as of yore, but remnants of the past remain in fisherfolk plying their traditional trade

First views of the Vidyasagar Setu - the new bridge in Kolkata 

Gateway arranged a wonderful spread of the city's iconic street food on board, only hygenic. From jhalmuri to ghugni to sandesh and kochuri via da,b  there was much to be greedy about! 

Howrah Station, Howrah Bridge, Howrah crowds, Howrah traffic, though Kolkata contributes its bit too! 

The jetties on this river are flexible due to the tide, remarkable engineering

There are many formerly splendid homes and other structures in ruins that if restored, can make the cruise sightings far more attractive 

The incomparable Howrah Bridge, a symbol the city has been identified with ever since it was built in 1943 

Life-sized statues adorn a ruined river facing old city palace

Belur, Swami Vivekananda's creation, and today centre of the Ramakrishna Mission, viewed from the Hugli

The spectacular now twinned bridges at Bally. The older one is at the back, and was once the main connector between south Bengal and rest of India 

Fisherfolk gaze curiously at us!

Dakshineshswar Temple, today associated with Rani Rashmoni

A busy ghat at mid day. Ghats are largely ablutionary, though some are cremation ghats as well

By this time, we had already been hogging almost constantly. There was a serious amount of street food on offer. Even if it meant that we were not supposed to have all of it at one go, we outsiders were not letting this chance go. Most of us already had done a round of breakfast in the hotel, but that did not prevent us from indulging greedily at intervals. As the sun continued its journey upwards above us, most had already stopped paying attention, undeservedly, to out excellent guide, Nilima, an architect working to conserve some of the city's historic past. But the jhalmuri, rolls, puchkas etc were excellent - those we vouch for!!!

Ruins in the middle of the Hugli! Apparently too expensive to remove, but surely can be turned around to be an attraction instead? 

Last glimpse of both bridges and the river skyline

Once Kolkata's main mall, New Market retains its significance and pulls Kolkatans even today

Inside New Market - unchanged for decades, though marginally cleaner, it seemed

Who's your favourite - Kareena, Sonakshi, Deepika, or Bidya? Suit your style

The famous flower sellers of New Market - not much has changed, actually

Inside Flury's - a Kolkata landmark

A Bangladeshi flavoured dinner as we discuss the day, and plan the next

First views of the wetlands a relatively vast area of waterways - shallow ponds, rivulets and canals

Flury's, Kolkata's most famous tearoom and Swiss confectionery, is  must visit for  first time visitor to Kolkata. It has been a landmark since it opened in 1927. After years of a solitary presence on Park Street, it now has 13 outlets in Kolkata, with plans to expand in the rest of the country.

Those little houses are for people to guard the fish at night

Effortless and graceful bridge navigation - in sharp contrast to our efforts, which consisted of much handholding, reassurances, a few jibes, much shrillness and slow progress

Fresh catch of fish for the market

Beautiful ponds dot the wetlands... 

It was difficult to come away from a place where the sun
graces the water so perfectly

In the race for development, green concerns are obviously an afterthought. Numerous examples around the world - eg Aral Sea have shown how devastating the end of a water body can be. Hope all the authorities concerned realise just how precious and beautiful these wetlands are - and keep them as they are. The East Kolkata Wetlands host the largest sewage fed aquaculture in the world. Bonani Kakkad forcefully drilled into us the need to preserve them, and this is actually something the state government should adopt as a showcase to highlight the city's green credentials. The city has no primary sewage disposal unit as it is done naturally, saving enormous resources. That was truly an enriching trip - one only wished there was more time. It was lovely of Gateway to have chosen these activities, and I for one am truly grateful.

An eastern getaway

Place: KOLKATA

The Gateway brand is explained in a section of the lobby! 

Hotel: GATEWAY

Kolkata’s second property from the Taj group, after the splendidly regal Taj Bengal, has been a long anticipated one. Well, Gateway, located along the EM Bypass, does not actually flaunt the Taj brand, though everyone around seems to be aware of it. Even though the group classifies this as a 5-star hotel, do not expect the luxury of a usual hotel of that standard. This brand is more minimal. The design is Spartan, as is the way the brand name appears, off centre. Creditably, there is a corner next to the deli that actually sees to explain the brand!

The lobby shape follows that of the hotel and gives a warm, cozy feel

Meeting room

Access to the hotel is easy, as it on the busy crossing where Rashbehari Avenue joins the EM Bypass. So no problems in entering the hotel, or indeed in getting public transport from right outside the hotel. Also this side of town is an emerging area – so it has local outlets of Flury’s, Balaram Mullick and others in close proximity. Ideal for a business traveler who has work in this part of town and needs to carry back goodies from these iconic Kolkata names! It is a little far from the airport, or indeed the main rail stations, but then so is almost everywhere in the city! Also Gariahat is just about a 15 minute auto / cab ride away. South City Mall is closer. An overlooked feature, the wetlands, where the nature, and especially bird lover can really enjoy is also nearby.

A selection of the active breakfast section of the breakfast buffet

While the exterior design could have been more aesthetic, once inside, you are amidst Taj hospitality. There are fewer staff around sure than say a top end Taj, but adequate. Staff do assist with luggage, and the business centre is right next to check in. There is a meeting room next door to it, good for about 15 people.

Swirl looks set to host the hip set of this end of the city 

The all day diner, Buzz, is to the right as you enter. Quiet, spacious, well laid out, with a generous buffet, it is quite a getaway in this part of the city, and seems to be already getting used by locals. The breakfast buffet is quite a spread, and has a special section called ‘active breakfast’, which caters largely to the modern traveler with its healthy and no fuss options. Swirl, the bar, - Gateway’s f&b outlet names need a little less corporate thought input – is adjacent to it. There is a deli on the other end of the lobby floor, and has some nice options.

The lovely pool overlooking the city

The pool on the top floor is perhaps the most attractive spot. Bright blue tiles light reflect the sunlight beautifully – though I imagine this will be nicer in winter to sit besides than in sultry Kolkata summer, when inside the pool may be better. Relaxing with a mojito on a deck chair is highly recommended in the winter sun. The gym is next door as is a spa. A specialty restaurant is slated to come up, possibly of Chinese cuisine.

The rooms have a large wall feature showing the Vidyasagar Setu

The rooms are standard fare, and identical, except for the suites, which have an additional living room. Easily the most interesting feature are the multi coloured night lights – at least I hope that’s what they are – at the head of the bed controlled by a regulator usually used to control fan speeds. There is a wardrobe, a perch for luggage, a work desk with multiple plug points, a sofa and a small round table in wood. The tea/ coffee maker is well stocked, as is the mini bar. A huge image of the Vidyasagar bridge covers the entire wall behind the bed, very nice, only it makes the room appear a little small – have seen this done at Mercure hotels – definitely a different standard of hotels, so a little unexpected. The front facing rooms overlook the Rashbehari Avenue Connector, pulsating with life, with a number of hospitals across the roundabout. Net unfortunately is chargeable, but easy to connect to.

As most modern hotels do, this one too has a largish conferencing facility, with a separate entrance. Spacious, it looks capable of hosting both social events and corporate functions with equal ease. For a business traveller with work in the eastern part of the city, look no further. 

Postcard perfect

Place: BRUGES

A quiet corner of charming Brugge

“It's a fairytale town, isn't it? How's a fairytale town not somebody's f***ing thing?” If you’ve seen In Bruges, a noir thriller set in this picturesque town, you will know that the Harry Waters, the person speaking the lines, is a violent crime boss who can’t understand why Ray, his henchman and on the run killer, played by Colin Farrell in arguably one of his best roles, can fail to like this historic town.

A view of Grote Markt, the heart of Bruges. Note the horse carriages and the Gothic architecture of the Provincial Court behind. Roads go out in multiple directions from here. Choose yours

Delights on sidewalks 

Well, forget Ray – he also gets dubbed “the worst tourist in the world” in the film! There’s logic to choosing Bruges, or Brugge, over others in a region known for its overdose of fairytale-pretty architecture and landscape! Now a smallish town in its heyday from the 12th to 15th centuries Bruges was a major centre of trade in western Europe. It possibly had the first stock exchange in the world when its bourse opened in 1309! Trade brought riches and culture, as it became known for its fine spinners – even now you can buy lace of all prices in the shops - and artists who worked here. For fans of history, Bruges is a treasure trove, for centuries of architecture and matching public sculpture make it an open art museum. Its city centre was one of the earliest to be put on UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Old windmills lend character to the town. And they are
beautifully manicured and preserved

What does Bruges have? Medieval Gothic houses, churches, cobbled streets, chocolate shops wherever you turn, a lovely canal with quaint boats that pass under matchingly charming bridges, an occasional horse drawn carriage ride, boat speckled canals with little flower decked stone bridges, old windmills, gardens with stunning fountains, endless fries, a variety of museums – possibly the best in the world... Add your room in the attic, complete with a charming fireplace and snow outside, a book, your favourite beverage, more fries, and you may be forgiven for thinking your must have done some good in life to deserve this slice of heaven.

As if the windows were not pretty
enough, Bruges is also the heart
of laceland

The world also must be full of do gooders much like you. For in Bruges, in a tucked away north western corner of Flanders, the Dutch speaking part of Belgium, tourists come in hordes, especially in summer. If you are not enamoured by crowds, there are enough options, just step away from Markt till it gets quieter. There are enough walkways along the canals, gardens and quiet lanes for you to soak in the refreshing aura of Bruges. Do get your hands on a map once you reach the town, and carry it along, for it will become very simple to navigate the streets that might just be empty - but then that's what you wanted, right? Just you, the cobbled street, the quiet brook, the lonely windmill, beautiful trees, a little nook to rest your limbs on, and well, no one around to ask you why...

Canals were once the economic lifeline of Bruges - now they serve tourists as faithfully!

Who can resist getting tempted to find
the treasures at the end of each lane

Just walk it
As walking (including a boat ride) is simply the best way to see Bruges, you could do it on your own by deciding your itinerary, though there are walking tours available. In this egg shaped town, you can start at the Grote Markt – yes, the great market. That’s the main square, very picturesque, boxed in by medieval Gothic buildings now fronted by cafes and boutiques. Climb up the 13th-century Belfry for a panoramic view. 366 steps, no elevator, but totally worth it! Catch your breath; take a lot of photos, including an FB cover pic.

Street musicians are common here

Historic buildings abound, so plan what you want to see. Many cobbled streets lead out of Markt. Steenstraat has the best shopping, especially for European brands. Begijnhof is traditionally a women only area. Heilige Bloed Basiliek, or the Basilica of the Holy Blood in the majestic Burg square is said to contain Jesus’ blood and dates back to the 12th century. There’s a lot, so make a list of what you want to see.

For those who wish to get an idea of how the city would have looked in medieval times, step outside the tourist zone to areas which physically have hardly changed over centuries. A walk along St Annarei and continuing north to Langerei and then walking along the canal by turning right to the windmills can be magical.

Inside the charming Choco Story, a museum dedicated to chocolate

Museums are fun too!
Museums abound in Bruges. One of the most important collections of art is in the Groeninge Museum. For those with more popular culture inclinations, there the Choco Story, a museum dedicated to chocolates, where you only get an exhaustive take into chocolate’s history and traditions, including about a thousand chocolate related objects, explains owner Cedric Van Belle. No, those early chocolate boxes are not for taking! You do however get to see chocolate being made, and sample some for free! Of course you can buy too. There are about 40 chocolate shops in this tiny town, each with collections guaranteed to dazzle you. Prepare for some heavy duty chocolate shopping – don’t even think faceless airport duty frees – there is no comparison. Here chocolates come in all shapes and sizes and flavours and combos. Many are artisanal, and handcrafted, and cost a lot. Leading brands such as Godiva have boutiques, but try the local ones like Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc or Chocolatier Van Oost if in a mood to splurge, though Stef’s is a popular, and more budget friendly option.

Street side cafes are plentiful and known for their quality cuisine 

Another popular museum is to that other staple of Belgium’s cuisine – fries. Called Frietmuseum, and just a short distance from Markt, Belgians claim they originated here and they still make them the best – so almost every dish comes with helping of fat, succulent, golden fries. For anyone with that rare disorder – need to put on weight fast – this is the place. I can vouch for adding weight part! Also popular are the Lumina Domestica, a museum to lamps and the Diamantmuseum, or diamond museum, though Antwerp, just about an hour away, is the city to go for diamonds!

Flemish stew, cooking in wine and served with
the omnipresent fries and a Reisling! 

If all this has made you hungry and thirsty, succour is around every corner. Try the Bruges special - smoked eel and mussels steamed in Riesling wine with, yes fries. For those who prefer, it comes in lamb or beef options as well. The cuisine is a mix of German/ Dutch staples with French sauces. Almost anywhere is very good, and there are lots of cafes all across, especially in the older areas. Actually, there are multiple restaurants serving Indian, read tandoori meals, but really, that’s what you want? Please tuck into another local offering - the delicious waffles instead.

Lots of local beer on offer

Beer is famous here, and available in great variety, including the Trappist ales, made traditionally by monks. For those who still have the energy, there are excellent bars and clubs – try t' Gulden Vlies or Cambrinus. The Brewery De Halve Maan doubles as a beer museum and is a very popular way to learn about beer making. Especially as it includes quaffing down Brugse Zot or Straffe Hendrik!

In a continent teeming with historic towns, Bruges was lucky enough to escape two major wars almost unscathed, and this along with modern conservation efforts, makes it a town that deserves more than just a few hours. There are any number of hotels, but choose the ones in the old houses. Johan Creytens, owner of the Relais and Chateaux-affiliated Heritage Hotel says hotels catering to every budget available. The entire city is a destination, and you will not regret extending a trip to fairy land. Hadn’t you forgotten Ray already!

Yes, Bruges is known for its roofscapes as well

TRAVEL TIPS
5 must dos: A boat ride in a canal, a ride through Markt in a horse drawn carriage, a visit to Choco Story, buy local chocolates, and lots of walking and eating.

When to go: Summer is far the most popular time to visit, and the city centre is full of tourists. However autumn and winter have their charms too, though they can get quite chilly. Be prepared for sudden showers any time, any day! Also in summer, days are very long, with daylight ending around 10pm!

Reaching there: There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Belgium’s capital Brussels, which is also connected by air and train with every major European city. From Brussels, it takes about an hour by train. Do not snooze, for you shall otherwise miss the picture perfect Flanders countryside.

Besides chocolates, tea stores are very pretty too

Within Bruges: Within the ‘egg’ or the town’s core, there walking is by far the best option. Even if you dawdle, stop to click photos, point out things to companions, walking to your destination is unlikely to take more than half an hour. Most are within ten minutes of the city’s centre. However public transport, from buses to horse carriages, do ply, though vehicles are discouraged in the city’s centre, and there are many car parks in the area where a car can be kept while you explore Bruges. Cycling is an excellent option, and bike rental stores are everywhere.

Unexpected pleasure included a rally of vintage cars,
complimenting the cobbled streets & period architecture

Language: Is not an issue as most Belgians speak English. If you know Dutch, you can get what the locals think of tourist hordes! Yes, names are long – I stayed on Niklaas Despersstraat, a lane not more than 100 metres in length! Peterseliestraat will lead you to the old windmills – there are four individually named grand specimens – while Snaggaarstraat leads you to quieter areas of Bruges. You wouldn’t want to miss Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk, a stunning church with architecture from the Romanesque era. Lucifernum is not an ode to that jealous archangel, but an excellent bar with an attached art gallery located in the old Freemasons temple. Try saying the names aloud to travelling companions before you try it on locals though!

Buying the chocolates you want is a heart wrenching task -
you obviously want some of all!

Get: A Bruges Card, which will help you access many museums at a lower price. Also have some Euros in cash, though most stores accept cards, some street side vendors prefer cash.

Keep in mind: Like much of Europe, many shops close by 6pm. Even in summer, restaurants will shut by 10pm.

Important: Get a map, and be conversant in reading it. Away from the centre, there may not enough people to ask direction always! The maps are very precise.

What a wonderful wall mount

Young children: Usually have a great time with fun museums, Boudewijn Theme Park and Dolfinarium, feeding swans, and tucking in.

For those with an eye for detail: Amazing tea shops and cafe, exquisite lace work, Flemish architectural details all around you, the Minnewater (or Love Lake – discover its romantic myth); why Bruges has to keep swans.

A version of this article was carried in the Hindu. Read it here