PHOTOESSAY: Kolkata's water worlds

Place: KOLKATA

I was fortunate to recently have been part of a cruise up the river Hugli - from the historic Outram Ghat to Dakshineshwar. It was organised by Gateway Hotel, a new Taj property in the city.

Kolkata, largely built under British rule, was, as every city before the advent of motorised transport, a river facing city. Today, people have turned their backs on the river, but closer examination reveals signs of a time the city still faced the river - its lifeline. An occasional ruined palace facade, the Howrah station, the numerous manors, the numerous ferries and of course the omnipresent ghats, all indicate how the river was once the main road.

What was perhaps even more fortuitous was a visit to the other end of the city - to its wetlands. The wetlands have acted as a natural sponge and sewage cleanser ever since the city has been built. Signs of its existence are seen in ponds increasingly towards the eastern boundaries of the city, though today the EM Bypass effectively acts as a dam. These wetlands, protected under the Ramsar Convention after a long battle, are still not out of the woods. Today mainly used for local fishing, they deserve recognition also for their sheer resplendent beauty, as we discovered in a brief dawn trip.

Here are a few glimpses from the trip: (Click for larger views)

The historic Outram Ghat - once a crucial gateway to the city. There is still a dilapitated customs office here. 

First glimpse of the Hugli

That's our cruiser - though to reach it, we had to take another boat

The river is not as densely packed with traffic as of yore, but remnants of the past remain in fisherfolk plying their traditional trade

First views of the Vidyasagar Setu - the new bridge in Kolkata 

Gateway arranged a wonderful spread of the city's iconic street food on board, only hygenic. From jhalmuri to ghugni to sandesh and kochuri via da,b  there was much to be greedy about! 

Howrah Station, Howrah Bridge, Howrah crowds, Howrah traffic, though Kolkata contributes its bit too! 

The jetties on this river are flexible due to the tide, remarkable engineering

There are many formerly splendid homes and other structures in ruins that if restored, can make the cruise sightings far more attractive 

The incomparable Howrah Bridge, a symbol the city has been identified with ever since it was built in 1943 

Life-sized statues adorn a ruined river facing old city palace

Belur, Swami Vivekananda's creation, and today centre of the Ramakrishna Mission, viewed from the Hugli

The spectacular now twinned bridges at Bally. The older one is at the back, and was once the main connector between south Bengal and rest of India 

Fisherfolk gaze curiously at us!

Dakshineshswar Temple, today associated with Rani Rashmoni

A busy ghat at mid day. Ghats are largely ablutionary, though some are cremation ghats as well

By this time, we had already been hogging almost constantly. There was a serious amount of street food on offer. Even if it meant that we were not supposed to have all of it at one go, we outsiders were not letting this chance go. Most of us already had done a round of breakfast in the hotel, but that did not prevent us from indulging greedily at intervals. As the sun continued its journey upwards above us, most had already stopped paying attention, undeservedly, to out excellent guide, Nilima, an architect working to conserve some of the city's historic past. But the jhalmuri, rolls, puchkas etc were excellent - those we vouch for!!!

Ruins in the middle of the Hugli! Apparently too expensive to remove, but surely can be turned around to be an attraction instead? 

Last glimpse of both bridges and the river skyline

Once Kolkata's main mall, New Market retains its significance and pulls Kolkatans even today

Inside New Market - unchanged for decades, though marginally cleaner, it seemed

Who's your favourite - Kareena, Sonakshi, Deepika, or Bidya? Suit your style

The famous flower sellers of New Market - not much has changed, actually

Inside Flury's - a Kolkata landmark

A Bangladeshi flavoured dinner as we discuss the day, and plan the next

First views of the wetlands a relatively vast area of waterways - shallow ponds, rivulets and canals

Flury's, Kolkata's most famous tearoom and Swiss confectionery, is  must visit for  first time visitor to Kolkata. It has been a landmark since it opened in 1927. After years of a solitary presence on Park Street, it now has 13 outlets in Kolkata, with plans to expand in the rest of the country.

Those little houses are for people to guard the fish at night

Effortless and graceful bridge navigation - in sharp contrast to our efforts, which consisted of much handholding, reassurances, a few jibes, much shrillness and slow progress

Fresh catch of fish for the market

Beautiful ponds dot the wetlands... 

It was difficult to come away from a place where the sun
graces the water so perfectly

In the race for development, green concerns are obviously an afterthought. Numerous examples around the world - eg Aral Sea have shown how devastating the end of a water body can be. Hope all the authorities concerned realise just how precious and beautiful these wetlands are - and keep them as they are. The East Kolkata Wetlands host the largest sewage fed aquaculture in the world. Bonani Kakkad forcefully drilled into us the need to preserve them, and this is actually something the state government should adopt as a showcase to highlight the city's green credentials. The city has no primary sewage disposal unit as it is done naturally, saving enormous resources. That was truly an enriching trip - one only wished there was more time. It was lovely of Gateway to have chosen these activities, and I for one am truly grateful.

An eastern getaway

Place: KOLKATA

The Gateway brand is explained in a section of the lobby! 

Hotel: GATEWAY

Kolkata’s second property from the Taj group, after the splendidly regal Taj Bengal, has been a long anticipated one. Well, Gateway, located along the EM Bypass, does not actually flaunt the Taj brand, though everyone around seems to be aware of it. Even though the group classifies this as a 5-star hotel, do not expect the luxury of a usual hotel of that standard. This brand is more minimal. The design is Spartan, as is the way the brand name appears, off centre. Creditably, there is a corner next to the deli that actually sees to explain the brand!

The lobby shape follows that of the hotel and gives a warm, cozy feel

Meeting room

Access to the hotel is easy, as it on the busy crossing where Rashbehari Avenue joins the EM Bypass. So no problems in entering the hotel, or indeed in getting public transport from right outside the hotel. Also this side of town is an emerging area – so it has local outlets of Flury’s, Balaram Mullick and others in close proximity. Ideal for a business traveler who has work in this part of town and needs to carry back goodies from these iconic Kolkata names! It is a little far from the airport, or indeed the main rail stations, but then so is almost everywhere in the city! Also Gariahat is just about a 15 minute auto / cab ride away. South City Mall is closer. An overlooked feature, the wetlands, where the nature, and especially bird lover can really enjoy is also nearby.

A selection of the active breakfast section of the breakfast buffet

While the exterior design could have been more aesthetic, once inside, you are amidst Taj hospitality. There are fewer staff around sure than say a top end Taj, but adequate. Staff do assist with luggage, and the business centre is right next to check in. There is a meeting room next door to it, good for about 15 people.

Swirl looks set to host the hip set of this end of the city 

The all day diner, Buzz, is to the right as you enter. Quiet, spacious, well laid out, with a generous buffet, it is quite a getaway in this part of the city, and seems to be already getting used by locals. The breakfast buffet is quite a spread, and has a special section called ‘active breakfast’, which caters largely to the modern traveler with its healthy and no fuss options. Swirl, the bar, - Gateway’s f&b outlet names need a little less corporate thought input – is adjacent to it. There is a deli on the other end of the lobby floor, and has some nice options.

The lovely pool overlooking the city

The pool on the top floor is perhaps the most attractive spot. Bright blue tiles light reflect the sunlight beautifully – though I imagine this will be nicer in winter to sit besides than in sultry Kolkata summer, when inside the pool may be better. Relaxing with a mojito on a deck chair is highly recommended in the winter sun. The gym is next door as is a spa. A specialty restaurant is slated to come up, possibly of Chinese cuisine.

The rooms have a large wall feature showing the Vidyasagar Setu

The rooms are standard fare, and identical, except for the suites, which have an additional living room. Easily the most interesting feature are the multi coloured night lights – at least I hope that’s what they are – at the head of the bed controlled by a regulator usually used to control fan speeds. There is a wardrobe, a perch for luggage, a work desk with multiple plug points, a sofa and a small round table in wood. The tea/ coffee maker is well stocked, as is the mini bar. A huge image of the Vidyasagar bridge covers the entire wall behind the bed, very nice, only it makes the room appear a little small – have seen this done at Mercure hotels – definitely a different standard of hotels, so a little unexpected. The front facing rooms overlook the Rashbehari Avenue Connector, pulsating with life, with a number of hospitals across the roundabout. Net unfortunately is chargeable, but easy to connect to.

As most modern hotels do, this one too has a largish conferencing facility, with a separate entrance. Spacious, it looks capable of hosting both social events and corporate functions with equal ease. For a business traveller with work in the eastern part of the city, look no further.