Regal splendour

Place: JODHPUR

Stand almost anywhere in Jodhpur, and the most impressive sight is likely to be the Mehrangarh Fort. Perched at a height atop a hill, this historic fort is the stuff of history and legend. As you enter you cannot but be thrilled and struck by the sheer stolidity of the walls, the delicacy of the palace carvings, the complexity in architecture – usual notions of number of storeys do not exist here, and wealth that once awed whoever came. Well, awed we still are.

A former stronghold of the Marwar dynasties, this about 550-year old fort is today one of the most impressive forts in India - as much for its size and architecture as its upkeep. The fort, build by one of Jodhpur’s most influential leaders, Rao Jodha (1438-89) of the Rathore clan, who also founded the city named after him, though today a lot of what stands in the fort was built during the time of Jaswant Singh and Ajit Singh about two centuries later. Over centuries, as invaders and allies broke through the massive walls, at places over 20 feet thick, but the fort structure has endured and today attracts visitors from far and near.

Note the sheer fall of some of
the palaces inside the fort.
Note too the details in carving!

Be prepared to get tired as you explore the extensive fort, which has many mahals and open courtyards and grounds and gardens. the architecture is a mix of styles and periods, and like many forts of the region, the layout is haphazard - intentionally so, for no one looking from outside can guess the what lies next to a wall or building. As Marwar was for along aligned to the Mughals, there are Mughal influences in the fort architecture and aesthetics too. The buildings often rise steeply next to cliffs, and have exquisite carving and detailing on them, leaving to ponder just how challenging it must have been for the workers. There are multiple buildings, though the usual tourist path is well marked and covers the main ones.

Long corridors are fronted by elaborate jharokhas as palaces mesh
into each other in a seamless complex

Today the Mehrangarh Trust takes care of the fort, making it one the best kept forts in the country, an example for heritage conservationists. headed by the current head of the erstwhile royal family, the conservation of this fort has earned it global kudos.

The palaces today serve as museum rooms. There are many artifacts kept preserved from the past, including palanquins or howdahs - which is first gallery you see, and it is stunning to see these. You look at them and wonder how difficult transporting them would have been, especially in the uneven terrain, though they have been a relief in the summer sun. They look small and uncomfortable to be seated in, though the work on them is lovely.

Elaborate palace interiors, complete with gilt coverings and
stained glass windows combine with traditional designs

The interiors are rich and indicate past splendour. There are separate areas for weapons, scrolls, manuscripts, utensils, carpets, brocades, and much more. A unique collection is of children's cradles, kept in a narrow room. There is wall for ceremonial turbans too.  There is a fairly extensive painting gallery, largely dating to later centuries and in the Rajput style of painting. Some rooms have been preserved as they were eg a bedroom etc.

The fort also offers spectacular views of the city, and if look around, you will see why the city is called ‘blue city’. Exploring the fort is great fun, especially understanding how people lived and worked and rested in this sealed complex.

The beautiful Chokelao Bagh 

There is an ambitious garden called Chokelao Bagh, which provides a green oasis within the fort. Towards the back of the fort are water reservoirs. Visit them just to see the stupendous amount of planning required to bring the water and keep it clean. On the way are gates and mazes that you will just have to step into.

The fort is fairly clean, there are enough staff, there are refreshment shops at upper levels too - very thoughtful so you don’t have to huff and puff back and forth. Cameras are at a fee, and gift shop has some lovely stuff, even if they are a tad expensive.

Lights at the zenana courtyard. At night the fort
transforms into a simmering ship in a sea of darkness

Possibly the most sensible time to visit is winter, but the fort also has a temple that is visited by thousands, largely locals, and also has annual fairs, when it comes to life. Another great time to visit is during the Jodhpur Riff, when the festival remains up all night, swinging to the beats of musicians far and near.