Royal setting

Place: JAIPUR 

Book: RAMBAGH PALACE

The first time I drove in through  imposing gates of Rambagh Palace, I was so struck by the magnificence of its gardens that I momentarily forgot there was a building to get to.  My green senses amply satiated, I entered portals of the palace. Once again I was struck by the sheer grandeur as much as the refined sophistication of the  palace. Entering from what I later realized was the former zenana entrance, the next few hours were dedicated to exploring what I realised would be one of the finest palaces or hotels I would ever visit.

That India's palace hotels have a place of their in the global corridors of luxury is well known. These properties, whose guest list reads like the invite wish  list of a elite party, hardly need more publicity. So this book, published by the Taj Group of hotels, which operates a number of palace hotels, with Jaipur's Rambagh Palace as one its prime jewels. 

The beautiful exteriors of the Rambagh Palace, today a hotel managed by the Taj Group

The book, Rambagh Palace, by Dharmindar Kanwar, with photos by Bharath Ramamrutham, does justice to this jewel of a palace. Designed to be the home of a sophisticated royal family, and built by successive rulers, this book brings forth the legacy and grandeur of a bygone era. A lovely large format tome with glossy pages that try to bring to life wonderful vistas to intricate details of ornate carvings, it is nevertheless a great introduction to the palace. The book is based on interviews with members of the royal family and also features some of the exclusive documents and photographs from the personal collection of the late Rajmata, Gayatri Devi. 

Unsurprisingly, it starts with a history of the city of Jaipur and how what was not always a royal palace came to be its gem. The sprawling City Palace, still one of Jaipur's top tourist destinations, was the traditional royal palace of the ruling Kachwaha family when the story of Rambagh starts. The residence started life modestly as a four room pavilion for then ruler Ram Singh II's  wet nurse, Kesar Badaran, and was known as Kesar Badaran ka Bagh, and later Rambagh. The estate reverted to the Jaipur state after Badaran's death. Ram Singh, fond of the tranquil childhood he spent there, decided to convert it guest house and hunting lodge, and took to transforming the palace into ambitious residences. His successor Madho Singh, too undertook further extensions, increasing both the use of estate and its status. "The newly expanded palace had three separate wings and within each were one one spacious reception room and wide verandas. The hand carved marble jaalis, scalloped arches, marble pillars, courtyards, verandas, terraces, sandstone balustrades and chhatris were in keeping with (Swinton) Jacob's signature style. Gradually, Rambagh was transformed into a well-appointed, twenty-six room palatial guest house." 

There are many reflections by Gayatri Devi
on her former home

The next ruler, Man Singh II took over in 1922, and decided to make it his official residence. Along with his glamorous third wife, Gayatri Devi, he made the palace into a destination people began clamouring to get invited too. She, and other members of family, have written fondly of their times a Rambagh Palace. This book amply quotes Gayatri Devi from her memoirs, and she was a huge fan of the palace. "There was always a feeling of magic in the air at Rambagh, the fairy tale palace which was once our gracious, comfortable and happy home. 

Change was in the air however. Early on post independence Man Singh II had decided to convert the palace to a hotel, and even though Gayatri Devi has in her memoirs has written of resenting hotel guests Interloping in what was earlier her home, the couple worked hard along with their team to successfully convert the palace into a destination hotel. In 1957, the palace was closed for six months to convert it to a hotel, and was run with internal staff till the Taj Group was given charge of operating the hotel in 1972. 

There are several chapters dedicated to the aesthetics and operations of the hotel as it stands today. Wonderfully detailed close ups of the building's architecture complement the text. One can just drool over the elegance and charm of traditional architecture blending into contemporary amenities.  Double spreads showcase corridors, lobbies, gardens, vintage cars, buggies, elephants, lattice work, cupolas, fountains - there is a lot for a fan of architecture and interiors that make it really drool worthy. 

The Oriental Room offers a great venue for parties

The chapter on food at the palace is also something for the reader to salivate over. From elaborate afternoon teas to silver thalis to dine from, and beautiful locations to choose from, royal menus, many of the erstwhile dining traditions ave been carried on. So even now, an eight course meal at Baradari is possible, or meals at the imposing Rajput Room.  The aura of the Polo Bar, with its central blue tiled fountain, or the private parties in the magical Oriental Room, are still intact. As is fine dining at Suvarna Mahal, where, if you are so inclined, you could feel the presence of many a past celebrated diner. Who knows, there will a celeb on the next table, which given the guest profile of the hotel, is more than likely. There is spread of photos providing details of the interiors, and the intricacy of detail in each visual will make you spend time. 

It is easy to dismiss a book such as this a mere 'picture book', something to browse through in between killing time. Not so. Both the author and the photographer have done an admirable job, and the layout deserves credit too. What undoubtedly assisted however is the sheer magical charm of this palace hotel. But then, if you could stay where once Omar Sharif or Edmund Hillary or Oprah Winfrey or Michelle Yeoh once did, it would be a befitting the setting.

Halo from Hyatt

Place: MANILA

Hotel: HYATT

I guess one can judge the efficiency of a hotel if one has checked in and out of the same hotel thrice each in a span of ten days. Well, I had to do that on a recent trip to Philippines, and was based in the Hyatt in Manila on Pedro Gill and close to the waterfront. The location is convenient if you want to be in the downtown, or are a tourist. For those coming for the SMX Convention Centre, it is not far, but the traffic can be dampener.  It is just two blocks from a Robinson’s Place, so great of you want to shop or dine out. If you are in the mood for a stroll, beware of being propositioned in the streets around! 

It is a tower hotel, with rooms beginning from level four. The lobby is business like, with no seating spaces. That said, there are excellent restaurants around the corner from the lobby, and a corridor leading to the casino just a few seconds from the main lobby. I guess the hotel does not want its guests to linger! The staff is ok, not overfriendly, but helps whenever required. Check in was not fast! 

There are a few dining options at the hotel to choose from. The Lounge has live music, the Pastry Boutique is cute and has a fair range, while seafood aficionados can enjoy Fireplace. For me the best was Market Café, which had live show kitchens for a number of Asian cuisines – Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and of course Filipino. Yes, the omelette, pizza, waffles, toast sections were all present and extensive and the breakfast spread made for a great start to the day. Loved the halo halo! The lunch buffet was nice too, though not as spectacular as breakfast one. 

I stayed in three different rooms, all on different floors, and even of different layout! The rooms however were uniformly nice, though unexciting in any way. Standard, but no individuality, and there are better Hyatts around. Of course a higher floor eg 32 offered a better view a lower one, and there are some bay view rooms, though view isn’t that great. The rooms are adequate provisioned, from bathing facilities to net requirements. Not to forget the 32 inch LCDs, with a fair number of international channels. The baths are quite deep, so beware. Also, the lighting in one of the rooms was fairly dim, and lent a depressing look. 

Starry comfort

The Holiday Inn is located by
the historic Straits of Malacca

Place: MELAKA

Hotel: HOLIDAY INN

Melaka, about an hour and a half south of Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur, is one of the its two UNESCO world heritage sites. The Straits of Malacca have been a very crucial route for east Asian economies, and the sense of history is still there, through a lot of museums and ships replicas strewn around this picturesque city, which unsurprisingly also has some old hotels. 

Well, I got to stay in one of the newest. And it was just the best stay I have had a 4-star hotel anywhere. I was very pleasantly surprised by the excellent quality of this Holiday Inn. Holiday Inn anywhere has a winning combination in their colour scheme – white and lime green, which just makes it more soothing to look at. When I looked up this hotel online, I was a little surprised to see it was away from the centre of old Melaka, but then I realized a walk to Jonkers Street is about 15 minutes if you stop and take pictures on the way! Though I later discovered there are shuttles to the old town from the hotel, and from morning to night! 

The infinity pool and the sea beyond. Just spectacular. 

The views are very good, and even though the sea view was amazing from my room, I actually thought the city view is better, just because Melaka is such a heritage town, and it has been done up beautifully, so what if all of it is not authentically antique! It is next to a large mall, and an adjoining night market. As this is one of the tallest buildings in the city, the views from the higher floors are very rewarding. 

It is a largish hotel, 20 stories, 275 rooms and suites. The lobby is huge and welcoming in warm oriental colours. I was fortunate to visit ahead of the Chinese New Year, when it was additionally done up. There is lots of art all across the public spaces in the hotel. 

A view of es.sense

The all day dining, es.sense is again a nice option for meals. I had a sumptuous breakfast, which had Continental and local options. For a large hotel, it wasn’t that crowded either. The gym is large, the Tea Tree Spa very pretty, though did not try, the pool large. It is an infinity pool, facing the sea.

The room was great too. Spacious, well lit naturally. The white bed was good, and the colours watercolours of Melaka contrasted well. Little touches, like a great platform to keep luggage at a good height, added to the pleasure. It has all the requirements of a business hotel. Most important, the net is easy to connect to. TV, pillows, ample docking stations, alarm clocks, easy to figure out switches(!), ironing board, tea maker, slippers, toiletries – all good. As was the staff in general.