Royal setting

Place: JAIPUR 

Book: RAMBAGH PALACE

The first time I drove in through  imposing gates of Rambagh Palace, I was so struck by the magnificence of its gardens that I momentarily forgot there was a building to get to.  My green senses amply satiated, I entered portals of the palace. Once again I was struck by the sheer grandeur as much as the refined sophistication of the  palace. Entering from what I later realized was the former zenana entrance, the next few hours were dedicated to exploring what I realised would be one of the finest palaces or hotels I would ever visit.

That India's palace hotels have a place of their in the global corridors of luxury is well known. These properties, whose guest list reads like the invite wish  list of a elite party, hardly need more publicity. So this book, published by the Taj Group of hotels, which operates a number of palace hotels, with Jaipur's Rambagh Palace as one its prime jewels. 

The beautiful exteriors of the Rambagh Palace, today a hotel managed by the Taj Group

The book, Rambagh Palace, by Dharmindar Kanwar, with photos by Bharath Ramamrutham, does justice to this jewel of a palace. Designed to be the home of a sophisticated royal family, and built by successive rulers, this book brings forth the legacy and grandeur of a bygone era. A lovely large format tome with glossy pages that try to bring to life wonderful vistas to intricate details of ornate carvings, it is nevertheless a great introduction to the palace. The book is based on interviews with members of the royal family and also features some of the exclusive documents and photographs from the personal collection of the late Rajmata, Gayatri Devi. 

Unsurprisingly, it starts with a history of the city of Jaipur and how what was not always a royal palace came to be its gem. The sprawling City Palace, still one of Jaipur's top tourist destinations, was the traditional royal palace of the ruling Kachwaha family when the story of Rambagh starts. The residence started life modestly as a four room pavilion for then ruler Ram Singh II's  wet nurse, Kesar Badaran, and was known as Kesar Badaran ka Bagh, and later Rambagh. The estate reverted to the Jaipur state after Badaran's death. Ram Singh, fond of the tranquil childhood he spent there, decided to convert it guest house and hunting lodge, and took to transforming the palace into ambitious residences. His successor Madho Singh, too undertook further extensions, increasing both the use of estate and its status. "The newly expanded palace had three separate wings and within each were one one spacious reception room and wide verandas. The hand carved marble jaalis, scalloped arches, marble pillars, courtyards, verandas, terraces, sandstone balustrades and chhatris were in keeping with (Swinton) Jacob's signature style. Gradually, Rambagh was transformed into a well-appointed, twenty-six room palatial guest house." 

There are many reflections by Gayatri Devi
on her former home

The next ruler, Man Singh II took over in 1922, and decided to make it his official residence. Along with his glamorous third wife, Gayatri Devi, he made the palace into a destination people began clamouring to get invited too. She, and other members of family, have written fondly of their times a Rambagh Palace. This book amply quotes Gayatri Devi from her memoirs, and she was a huge fan of the palace. "There was always a feeling of magic in the air at Rambagh, the fairy tale palace which was once our gracious, comfortable and happy home. 

Change was in the air however. Early on post independence Man Singh II had decided to convert the palace to a hotel, and even though Gayatri Devi has in her memoirs has written of resenting hotel guests Interloping in what was earlier her home, the couple worked hard along with their team to successfully convert the palace into a destination hotel. In 1957, the palace was closed for six months to convert it to a hotel, and was run with internal staff till the Taj Group was given charge of operating the hotel in 1972. 

There are several chapters dedicated to the aesthetics and operations of the hotel as it stands today. Wonderfully detailed close ups of the building's architecture complement the text. One can just drool over the elegance and charm of traditional architecture blending into contemporary amenities.  Double spreads showcase corridors, lobbies, gardens, vintage cars, buggies, elephants, lattice work, cupolas, fountains - there is a lot for a fan of architecture and interiors that make it really drool worthy. 

The Oriental Room offers a great venue for parties

The chapter on food at the palace is also something for the reader to salivate over. From elaborate afternoon teas to silver thalis to dine from, and beautiful locations to choose from, royal menus, many of the erstwhile dining traditions ave been carried on. So even now, an eight course meal at Baradari is possible, or meals at the imposing Rajput Room.  The aura of the Polo Bar, with its central blue tiled fountain, or the private parties in the magical Oriental Room, are still intact. As is fine dining at Suvarna Mahal, where, if you are so inclined, you could feel the presence of many a past celebrated diner. Who knows, there will a celeb on the next table, which given the guest profile of the hotel, is more than likely. There is spread of photos providing details of the interiors, and the intricacy of detail in each visual will make you spend time. 

It is easy to dismiss a book such as this a mere 'picture book', something to browse through in between killing time. Not so. Both the author and the photographer have done an admirable job, and the layout deserves credit too. What undoubtedly assisted however is the sheer magical charm of this palace hotel. But then, if you could stay where once Omar Sharif or Edmund Hillary or Oprah Winfrey or Michelle Yeoh once did, it would be a befitting the setting.