Near pavilions

The Thai Pavilion is decked in warm, welcoming colours 

Place: GURGAON 

Restaurant: THAI PAVILLION

Thai Pavillion is a welcome addition to Gurgaon’s considerable culinary space

Almost two decades after the first Thai Pavilion opened its doors at Mumbai’s Taj President, it forever altered that city’s appreciation for Thai delicacies. Now its latest edition is set to usher in a similar sweep in shiny-shabby Gurgaon’s swanky Vivanta by Taj, where the latest edition of the Pavilion has just opened. The newest edition of the restaurant, the third, after a Pavilion at Vivanta in Hyderabad’s Begumpet, also marks the first north Indian foray for the outlet.

Kai haw bai toey, marinated chicken morsels wrapped in
pandan leaves and fried

The same high standards still apply, still under eagle eyes of Executive Chef Ananda Solomon, whose success with this brand for long was a model to emulate for specialty restaurants at top end hotels. Well chef is personally in Delhi about once a month, and the team here has trained with him in Mumbai extensively. Additionally, there is a diminutive and dazzling and thankfully English speaking Thai Master Chef Prajaub Shoosridam, spending long hours in the kitchen and frowning at no chillies and other such customization requests. Yes, you are guaranteed an authentic Thai flavour here.

The wonderfully tangy Som tam, Young papaya salad combined
with sweet and spicy sauce

Nevertheless every day there are tests that must be passed successfully. A nod to Delhi’s local client palate means there is a comparatively greater stress on red meats, and well meats in general than the other outlets, but then Hyderabad is spicier. Solomon says a proper study was done of trends in Delhi before finalizing the menu. “You can’t Indianise the concept,” chef stresses. “Thai restaurants have to be authentically handled. The right combinations have to be achieved, right from the starters to the main course. Solomon is known for his adherence to the classic traditions of cuisine, be it his native Konkani or in the successful restaurants he has launched in cuisines as different as Thai and Italian.

The 80-cover Thai Pavilion carries forward the traditions of its cousins – most of the ingredients still fly in from Thailand to Mumbai and then get distributed to Hyderabad and Delhi. While chicken is an exception, almost everything else from lamb to rambutan and dragon fruit to pandan leaves, condiments and even a variety of chillies all fly in twice weekly.

The famous Thai curries - red and green, with steam rice

The menu is fairly extensive, and starters after the lovely pomegranate based welcome drink, include Sakuna chowsuan sos makam (Tempura prawns with tamarind sauce) and Kai haw bai toey (marinated chicken morsels wrapped in pandan leaves and fried), but the best choices by far are the tangy Som tam (Young papaya salad combined with sweet and spicy sauce) and Pra hed (mushrooms delicately blended with Thai herbs). There’s a vast choice of main courses, including many vegetarian ones. Apart from the most familiar, and ordered red and green curries – delicious by the way – try the Heao phad prik haeng (Water chestnuts and cashew nuts with red chili paste) or the Pia Nueng Manao (Steamed John Dory with coriander, chilly, peanut in a tangy sauce).

The restaurant itself is spacious, has a waiting lounge, which in the near future could we well used, given the restaurant’s popularity and fairly affordable pricing. Traditional Thai motifs are present and yet subtle, and the one that can become two PDRs, or private dining rooms offer a greater degree of privacy for groups. While Taj will not say how much it cost – Solomon says finding the right young people who are ready to spend long hours in the kitchen is getting harder – and a challenge for the entire sector.

Try the lovely Tub Tim Grob, Diced water chestnut with coconut milk, a dessert that will leave you
yearning for more

For those not yet favourably inclined to oriental desserts, make an exception and save space for the delectable Tub Tim Grob (Diced water chestnut with coconut milk), which is served in a scooped out raw coconut and comes with ice cream and chocolate rolls, if you like. You will ask for a refill even if you are stuffed! Or return for another helping!